South East Asia Wrap-Up...

Vietnam:
Vietnam takes a little getting used to, especially during the sweltering hot summer. After landing at Hanoi International Airport we took the 45 minute drive into the Old Quarter of Hanoi, already dripping in sweat. A sea of scooters zigzagged around our van, some coming straight at us driving on the wrong side of the road; it was like a mad swarm of bees. After arriving in the Old Quarter, the scooters don’t let up, but the beauty and nuances of the city begin to sink in.

We traveled from North to South during our three weeks in Vietnam, starting in Hanoi and finishing in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). This itinerary gave us different perspectives of the government affiliations, the people, the climate and the food. It appears the North still believes in the changing communist government and the messages they broadcast over loud speakers throughout the city, but as we moved south we met people, who whispered and looked over their shoulders, as they discussed their dislike for the government and the need for more rapid change. There is a lot of hope in the country as policies gradually shift and relations with the USA and the EU improve.

Almost frantic construction could be seen in nearly every town; hotels, business complexes and housing. However, the building of much needed infrastructure appeared to be lagging far behind. Those who suffered most, stripped of their nationality and heritage, were always close in the background; they scrapped by, trying to make a living for their family; that is if they were lucky enough to have a family. Many of those who ended up in “re-education” camps after the war are too poor to support a family. The government won’t allow them to work, give them a place to live, and many scrape by on the streets of the large cities. A lot of these people were once teachers, doctors, or other professionals, but they made a mistake in the eyes of the government—they fought for freedom.

Overall, our experience in Vietnam was a positive one, with some definite highlights in terms of sites, shopping and food. The fact that we traveled as a family—Bob, Teddy, Elise, Marc and I—made it an experience that none of us will ever forget. As a family, we also gained the respect of the Vietnamese locals, who smiled brightly when they realized we were indeed a family.

We highly recommend starting in Hanoi and finishing in Saigon. The route still goes from crazy to crazier, but at least Hanoi gets you ready for what is to come in the insane streets of Saigon.

Cambodia:
After finally escaping the chaos of Saigon, we were happy to land in Siem Reap, Cambodia. The vibe in the tourist town was a lot different than in Saigon or other parts of Vietnam. There will still people pushing product, such as postcards, tuk-tuk rides, or tours, but they were more laid back, without the in-your-face approach.

Tourists come to Siem Reap for one reason—to see the great Ankor Wat. We explored several temples during our time in Siem Reap including Tomb Raider, but nothing really compares to the vast structure that is Ankor Wat. The architecture and detail is incredible and then to think the imposing structure was built over 800 years ago. It is truly an amazing feat and well worth the time in Siem Reap.

Cambodia as a whole still suffers from the monstrosities dealt by its government, led by Pohl Pot in the late 70s and early 80s. Millions of educated and outspoken people were killed during the communist regime; ultimately leaving the country full of farmers and laborers. The lasting effects can still be seen. Their desire for education is seriously curbed by the lack of teachers at both the elementary and university levels. Additionally, without doctors, infant mortality rates are between 6-8% and prevention and treatment for common diseases is nearly non-existent. Further, lacking scientists and engineers, the country suffers from inadequate infrastructure and scientific advances. There’s no one to build much needed bridges, roads and power plants or direct them with agriculture advances, food preservation and distribution techniques.

We were personally touched by the people in Cambodia clearly trying to rise and get their country back on track. They all seemed to have hope. However, the poverty was like nothing we’ve ever seen—even in India. We would have loved to have adopted at least one of the poor children if we could, but that really only solves a small part of the overall problem.

The country has a long way to go, but we can do our part by visiting, and making donations to legitimate organizations such as Red Cross, Land Mine eradication efforts, etc. I know we’ll go back—soon.

Laos:
As soon as we landed in Luang Prabang we knew we were in for something special. The people outside of the airport didn’t seem one bit interested in us, or where we were staying that night; we even had to ask for a taxi ride into town. In Vietnam, and even Cambodia, we had hoards of people waiting for us outside of the terminal to give us cheap accommodations, taxi rides, or great deals on an all inclusive tours.

We were shocked at how reserved the people in Laos were, but we absolutely loved it. Of course there were a few peddlers along the main street selling jewelry and other handicrafts, but you only had to tell them No, Thank You once and they would simply move on and leave us alone. When we were looking for a ride to the local waterfall we actually had to find our own tuk-tuk driver to drive us the 60KM to the crystal blue pools in the neighboring mountainside.

As we traveled outside of Luang Prabang to the more remote sections of Laos, we felt like we were by ourselves in nature. There were very few tourists, no cars, and no motor scooters. Many times the only mode of transportation was by boat, bicycle or walking. We also had a very special experience helping out Roger Vanderbeek, whom we met in South America; delivering money for school to his adopted family.

Overall, Laos was an incredible experience and will not soon be forgotten. We hope the country can retain its relaxed, rustic and innocent quality for years to come.

Thailand:
As soon as we crossed the river from Huay Xin, Laos to Thailand, we knew we were back into a commercialized society. There was only one bank (no ATM), on the Laos side, but on the Thailand side of the river there were ATMs at nearly every corner, it had 7-11s, Toyota dealerships, and Internet cafés throughout the town. It’s crazy how two countries within such so close proximity can be so different.

After relaxing for a few days in northern Thailand (Chiang Rei and Chiang Mai) we headed south to the beautiful beaches of Koh Phi Phi Don. The tropical setting was a perfect way to unwind after several months of constant travel. August is the rainy season in the South, but we lucked out and had perfect weather. The beaches of Thailand are gorgeous and the locals need tourism dollars as they are still recovering from the Tsunami of 2005.

After several nights on the island we spent a few days in Bangkok before leaving South East Asia. We’re still amazed how much the city has changed. Our last visit was in 2001 and we found the city to be dirty, difficult to get around, and, worst of all, the child prostitution was rampant. Now, there is an excellent public transportation system, the shanties that riddled the city are gone, and the government has done a lot to curb the child prostitution. There are signs everywhere discouraging sex tourists, and that sex with under aged children is still a crime and will not be tolerated. This doesn’t mean the sex industry has gone away completely. However, the sleazy guys in alleys offering young girls to you as walk past seem to be gone or at least hidden very well.

Top Sites in South East Asia:
Ankor Wat, Cambodia—Words cannot do justice to this awesome architectural feat. I am truly baffled as to why this wasn’t named one of the Seven Wonders of the World…it truly is amazing. Absolute MUST SEE!

Halong Bay, Vietnam—this is another must see on any itinerary to Vietnam. Located two hours north of Hanoi, the sea of over 2000 islands is spectacular. It’s a surreal experience as you sail between the dotted islands on a junk boat. Stay at least one night on the boat. As you wake up to the islands surrounding you in the morning, you won’t regret it.

Shopping and Food in Hoi An, Vietnam—This was one of my favorite stops in Vietnam. Not only can you get suits, dresses, and shoes custom made for you within 24 hours, but you can try some of the best food in Vietnam. The local specialties Cao Lau (special noodles with spicy pork) and White Rose (shrimp dumplings) can be found on almost every menu. However, the best meal was at Café de Amis where the menu rotates every night.

Koh Phi Phi Don, Thailand—this is a perfect place to relax and get away from everything. The remote island is accessible by ferry via Krabi and has some great beaches to work on the tan. The crowd can sometimes be a little young, and the bars tend to cater to the party scene. Try to stay at Bayside, which is at the end of the beach, and easy to escape whatever party—full moon, half moon, or backpackers—at Hippies. Make sure to catch at least one of the fire shows at the beach bars. Also, make sure to eat at Tuk’s BBQ along the waterfront. It’s definitely not fancy, just a few tables set-up along the ocean wall, but the BBQ chicken and corn is the best in town!

Northern Countryside of Laos—as we trekked through the rice paddies of northern Laos we were shocked at our calm and isolated surroundings. The only people we saw were locals as we walked through the village to find Roger’s adopted family. The experience of delivering the package made Laos special, but we were able to understand how Roger fell in love with this place.

Top Meals in South East Asia (in chronological order of visit):

Restaurant on Corner of Hang Buom and Hang Glay—Hanoi, Vietnam. We found this little place where the locals were eating—we had to try it. The restaurant is set out on the sidewalk where patrons sit on preschool sized plastic tables that disappear during the day. The kitchen was right on the street within sight where all of the meat was grilled. The place was so great we went back a second night.

Banh Mi—Hanoi, Vietnam. We had to walk in circles to find the sandwich maker on the streets of Hanoi, but when we finally found her we were ecstatic. The tasty grilled beef sandwiches, served on a fresh baguette, were glazed with a spicy sauce and topped with cucumbers and cilantro. Yum!

Mandarin Cafe—Hue, Vietnam. This restaurant recently moved to a larger location down the street. The building is slightly unfinished as the owner, Mr. Cu, plans to display his beautiful photography on the walls. There are books of photos that Mr. Cu has displayed in France and Italy. We even saw a few of his photos in Dalat.

Mermaid—Hoi An, Vietnam. We had a spicy beef pot that had the flavors I expected in Vietnam—they were incredible. It was almost like a curry and the sauce was excellent poured over a little rice.

Café de Amis—Hoi An, Vietnam. This restaurant had a fixed menu each night. We were able to order seafood, vegetarian or meat. Since there were five of us we were able to try all three!

Hong Phuc Restaurant—Hoi An, Vietnam. This place is known for its fish wrapped in banana leaves, which was incredible, but I really liked the spicy stir fried chicken. The blend of chilies, garlic, ginger and lemongrass was a nice blend on top of rice.

Hai’s—Hoi An, Vietnam. I was very comfortable at Hai’s from the moment we walked into the place. This was confirmed when I read the note on the menu, “No MSG and all vegetables are cleaned in purified water.” We didn’t have problems at any other places, but the note was refreshing. The chicken with rice was the best we had in Hoi An.

Lobster Street Side—Nha Trang, Vietnam. We had fabulous lobster grilled on the street with a tasty lime sauce. At 180,000 dong per Kilo the lobster was a real bargain. We sat on the street on the preschool table and chairs slurping every last bite of lobster out of the shell.

Pho 2000—Saigon, Vietnam. We only had what I consider to be excellent Pho in two places in Vietnam and this was one of them (the other was in a remote hillside village of Dalat). The simple, yet complex tasting, broth was exactly what I had been craving since arriving in Vietnam. It’s a large operation, but they’ve got the recipe perfect!

Chiang Rai Night Market—Chiang Rai, Thailand. This was the first place we had authentic, spicy Thai food. The food in restaurants was tamed down and catered more towards tourists than locals.

Cooking Class—Chiang Mai, Thailand. We learned how to cook up our own Tom Yum soup, green curry and spring rolls. Since we were cooking, we could spice it up to our liking—Yum!

Cabbages and Condoms—Bankgok, Thailand. We first visited this restaurant in 2001 and really enjoyed it. The tourists have definitely changed the food in this place, but if you ask for spicy they will fire it up for you, but you must insist. The garden setting is very nice with fans and misters running all the time.

Tuk’s BBQ—Koh Phi Phi Don, Thailand. This guy on the waterfront grills up some mean chicken and corn. We frequented this place at least three nights during our eight on the island. The price was right, the food was fresh and we enjoyed it every time.

Don’t Miss these Towns:
Hoi An, Vietnam
Dalat, Vietnam
Siem Reap, Cambodia
Luang Prabang, Laos
Koh Phi Phi Don Island, Thailand

Not Worth the Stop:
Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), Vietnam—It is hard to say this historical city isn’t worth the stop, so check it out, but get out as soon as possible. The traffic, scooters and dense population make the place a madhouse. If you’re looking for the Saigon of old, where people meandered through the streets as women and men rode their bikes along side them, it doesn’t exist anymore. Saigon is now a major commercial city in a communist country frenetically fighting its way towards capitalism. If you stay too long it will either consume you or make you crazy… or both.

Udomxai, Laos—This is a passing point from Nong Kaiw to the Thailand border. The town sits in a small valley that is filled with smog. It’s best to keep moving through here without even one night in the smog filled town.

Best, and only, Brewery:
Le Louisiane. Nha Trang, Vietnam. This small little brewery is located right on the beach in Nah Trang. The microbrewery was a nice change from the typical lagers served throughout South East Asia.

Best Lodging:

Note: These are places we personally stayed. All prices are estimates at the time of our visit and are displayed in USD.

Also of note: Our accommodations varied throughout South East Asia. In Vietnam, we had a few beautiful rooms, especially in Hoi An, for no more than $25/night. In Laos, we averaged $4.82 during our twelve nights in the country. It would have been very difficult to spend more on a room in Laos if we tried. However, the rooms were sparse, some with an outhouse for a toilet and a tub of water for a bathing. It was all part of the experience.

Thanh Xuan. Hoi An, Vietnam. This beautiful hotel had a nice pool with a restaurant poolside. The stunning lobby with a miniature waterfall and Coy Pond would have been $300 in Hawaii, but the price was far less here. There was free internet in the lobby and Wi-Fi in the rooms. Double room: ~$18Bayside Resort. Koh Phi Phi Don, Thailand. Each bungalow has a view of the water from a private balcony. It is a perfect spot to enjoy a beer in the evening. The buffet breakfast is superb. Private Bungalow: ~$50

Millennium Hilton Bangkok. Bangkok, Thailand—This brand new hotel along the riverfront in Bangkok is well worth the money. Make sure to check out the rooftop bar with views of the entire city. Double room: ~$100+

Dreams Hotel. Dalat, Vietnam. We felt right at home at the Dreams hotel. The proprietor understands quality and expects her entire staff to adhere to her high quality standards. They do not push travel services, will tell you when something is too expensive, and are very professional. The staff gives straight advice to help the traveler save some money. Double room: ~$20

Wat’s Up? Guesthouse Siem Reap, Cambodia. This fairly new place was clean and only a short walk from the main part of town; right around the corner from the Golden Banana Guesthouse. The breakfast is descent and is served on top of the rooftop veranda. Double room: ~$20

Good Night Vietnam...

Saigon, Vietnam

July 6, 2007
N 10°46.071
E 106°41.665

I woke up at 5:00 AM unable to go back to sleep no matter how hard I tried. I quietly got out of bed, trying my best not to wake Marc; I wanted to finish my story from San Francisco. I stroked the keyboard stealth like, without making a peep.

Not only was I suffering from jet lag, but I was afflicted with a mean case of culture shock. When I left Vietnam ten days ago I had become accustomed to the sea of scooters, bikes and cars forcing their way through the wet Saigon streets, with their horns blaring. I had adapted to dodging scooters, cyclos and cars, sidestepping piles of garbage, and fending off street vendors; my skills of navigating through chaos were honed. However, after being in the States for a week, where laws matter and chaos doesn’t reign supreme, I was stuck between two worlds—one at home, one as a traveler.

I had a tough day re-adjusting. I was happy to be back with Marc, of course, but the busy streets of Saigon were overwhelming. Street peddlers sold everything… during dinner, in a matter of 45 minutes; we were approached by at least a dozen people selling everything from bootlegged books, fake Zippo lighters, hashish, mushrooms, opium, to chocolate chip cookies. Don’t worry—we didn’t touch any of that stuff—but we did grab a few cookies.

We loved our time in Vietnam, but one can only handle so much time in Saigon. Saigon is a city that is on top of you all the time, forcing you to stay on your toes every minute outdoors.

I know we have so much more to see and my family and friends will be at home when I return. A good night’s sleep and a new country will help me get back in the travel state of mind. I know Marc will play a huge role in my quick recovery too.

It's Hard to Say "See You Soon"...

Phu Quoc / Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon):

July 4, 2007
N 10°46.071
E 106°41.665

Laura will be back in Ho Chi Minh City tomorrow evening. It has been strange not having her around the past week... we've been together 24x7 since January and this is the longest we've been apart. It has been hard! At the same time, I have extremely fond memories from Phu Quoc. (Pictures will follow soon, please be patient).

I spent 7 nights on the island in a very remote "resort" that had 7 very quaint bungalows ($8 per night); no hot water, electricity was sporadic at best, but the beer was always cool and the food was excellent. Best of all, I made friends I will never forget. The most notable was Ha, a 23 year old Vietnamese girl who I tutored in English for about 3 hours per day.

Over the course of the week we became very good friends. We spoke for hours about our families, friends, childhoods, dreams, religion, and of course our countries. She watched after me like I was her family and not a guest. I will be forever grateful for her friendship and extraordinary hospitality.

Below is my final story (Part III) from the time I spent on Phu Quoc:

A final cup of black coffee with with my friend.
The taste of saline as I hold back tears.
We both try to smile.
Memories of a rare friendship.

The clap of thunder breaks the silence.
Time to go.

No good-byes.
Just a quick hug, a sincere Thank You, and a treasured kiss on the neck.

The motorbike pulls away.
Tears in my eyes.
I force myself to look back.

A final snap-shot.

My friend stands alone, still waving.
See you soon.

Marc's Hair Removal...

Meanwhile, as Marc sat on the beach, here is his story of the day:

Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

N 10°11.124
E 103°57.963

I did get a massage today and the little lady insisted that she help me with my back hair "problem" for a small fee... "no good long hair on back, must take off. Yes, yes, no ouch, very easy." I can't believe I agreed to this idiotic idea, but once it started there seemed to be no turning back. I'm no pussy.

She used what I would consider a manual Epi-Lady. A ball of twine that she would spin around the hair on my back with both hands, one end of the twine was held in her teeth, she would then pull forcefully with her hands and use her teeth to guide a new segment of thread through her fingers... yanking the hairs off my back in a sweeping fashion... pulling at the same hair several times until it finally released.

Needless to say it was the same rare form of Vietnamese torture that I'm sure many of our POW's were subjected to during the war. The whole agonizing event lasted for what I believe to be 35 minutes, not quite sure since I was drifting in and out of consciousness due to the exquisite pain. I was actually laughing at the end of the "treatment"... I couldn’t believe I actually paid to have this little lady sit on my back and rip my hair out. I don't even care if there's hair on my back, but she sure did. She got every single last strand.

After the torture treatment ended I was treated to a full body massage... I think it was good, but anything after the torture I was just subjected to would be nice. She could have poured a can of hot coals on my back and I think I would have breathed a sigh of relieve.

Stories From The Beach...

Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

June 28, 2007
N 10°11.124
E 103°57.963

Introduction: As Marc sits on a remote beach in Vietnam writing little stories, I am in San Diego, CA with my friend who is getting married in two days. Sorry, Marc's stories won't have any pictures until I return to Vietnam on 7/5.

Here is one of Marc's stories...

Little boys, big sister and dog scampper down the beach.
Soaked, smiling, sandy.

Coconuts fight to stay at sea.
Floating travelers.
Tide rolls them up and down the shore.
Struggling, exhausted they come to rest.

Unknowingly, sister and brothers aid the stranded travelers.
Laughing, heaving the brown balls back to sea.
As far as their small arms will allow.

Bouncing, bobbing, afloat... again travelers.

Never Say "Goodbye", Say "See You Soon"...

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

June 25, 2007
N 10°46.071
E 106°41.665

Note: Marc and I will most likely have parallel stories until we are back together on 7/5.

As with most things in life, all good things come to an end, and that includes the American Family Vacation. The five of us traveled in a pack for the last 19 days; Marc, Elise and I for the past month and I think all of us enjoyed every minute of it.

Marc, Elise and I boarded the bus for Saigon at 8:15 AM, leaving Bob and Teddy behind in Dalat. Bob and Teddy are heading to Luang Prabang via Hanoi on the 27th, Elise is heading to Cambodia via the Mekong Delta, Marc to Phu Quac Island and me to San Diego, California for my best friend’s wedding.

We all had so much fun together that saying goodbye was pretty difficult, which is when I reminded everyone to never say goodbye, but to see you soon. We will see everyone again in just a few months when we celebrate Joel and Lisa’s wedding (Marc’s brother).

There were even talks of our next family vacation, hoping more of the family would make it if we gave them plenty of time to save for the trip. The most likely destination for the next trip…South America.

We had one more night with Elise in Saigon; having heavy discussions around what is next for her, a recent college graduate. Marc and I both gave our opinions and reminded her that she has input from plenty of people, including her big brothers and sister-in-law, for any required career counseling. Luckily, she is bright with a good head on her shoulders and will excel in whatever she does.

As the three of us sat around at dinner that night, we realized we are all in the same situation. No jobs, no real commitments and endless possibilities in front of us. I think at this point, our parents just hope we make it home some day soon. If not, everyone else will have to meet us on the road.

For now, we will just say… see you soon.

Love,
Marc and Laura

An Easy Ride(r) in the Countryside...

Dalat, Vietnam

June 24, 2007
N 11°56.529
E 108°26.398

The American Family minus Teddy (she had to take a sick-day) headed out with the Easy Riders again today. This time we were with four of the original Riders. Our leader explained that the four of them were part of the Easy Riders back in 1993-94 and have been giving tours longer than any of the other “young kids”.

We didn’t really know what to expect during our countryside tour after seeing what we thought were a lot of great sights yesterday, but as soon as the wind blew in our faces on the motorcycles and my guide started talking to me, I knew we were in for another treat.

The Riders we had today all fought with the Americans during the war. As each one of them had an opportunity to lead the tour we heard their affection towards Americans as well as their personal impacts and hardships during the war.

One of the men spoke to us under the canopy of a greenhouse, surrounded by carnations and roses about the hardships of the war upon his family. He had tears in his eyes as he described the shot fired by an AK-47 that struck his brother in the heart, killing him instantly, and clearly tearing apart the heart of the man in front of us at the same time. It was a very personal memory he chose to share with us most likely because we are Americans.

As we rode from stunning Pagodas, walked through pine forests, visited greenhouses full of flowers, silk factories, and coffee plantations, the men, all in their late 50s/early 60s passionately talked about the improvements in their country, and possibilities for their children and grandchildren. Excitement in their voices, they talked about the recent visit by George W. Bush to Vietnam and the reciprocal invitation for the president of Vietnam to visit Washington DC. Showing again yesterday was yesterday, and today is today… who knows what tomorrow will bring. But it was clear these guys hope Vietnam will continue to heal and tomorrow will bring prosperity.

Vietnam will definitely be a different place in the near future. They still have a lot of improvements to make, especially around human rights and environmental concerns, but it appears everyone (at least in the South) has the desire to make it a better place tomorrow.

Yesterday is Yesterday, Today is Today, and Tomorrow is Tomorrow...

Dalat, Vietnam

June 23, 2007
N 11°56.529
E 108°26.398

Marc, Elise and I organized a ride with the “Easy Riders,” local tour guides, hanging out on street corners, who speak English and zip around from site to site on motorcycles—mostly old Russian or East German models. Since arriving in Vietnam I’ve completely given up my fear of motorcycles and embraced the motorbike as a primary and necessary mode of transportation. Today wasn’t any different.

When we set out in the morning, we asked the Riders to take us into the mountains so we could go trekking and requested them to pick us up after 4 hours. After a few minutes of good natured haggling over a price and a general agreement of where we were going we jumped on the bikes. A few kilometers out of town, a light rain started to come down making the roads slick, slowing our Riders down and forcing us to stop briefly to put on rain slickers.

Out of the town, we quickly climbed into the mountains. Snaking our way along the mountainside we had a perfect view down to the city of Dalat. Fields of green vegetables terraced the mountainside of rich, brilliant, red soil. Greenhouses were scattered among the fields, filled with various types of flowers including hydrangeas, roses and hibiscus; sold throughout Vietnam and exported to neighboring countries. As my Rider focused on the road I scanned right and left taking in the stunning scenery as we moved through small villages, more vegetable fields and local markets featuring the fresh produce.

Our first stop was the Tiger Waterfall where our guide advised us to walk down to the waterfall, take pictures and come back to meet him. Since the rain was still trickling, the Riders didn’t want to drive the 18 KM back to town, and then return to pick us up. Instead, they decided to lead us over the mountain trails, and after we discovered they had local knowledge of the area we were fine with them showing us the way.

The mountain area surrounding Dalat was a hotbed for Viet Cong during the American War (as it is known to the locals). Dalat was more of a safe-haven for the Viet Cong since they were familiar with the area, American and Vietnamese soldiers stayed clear of the rough wilderness. Those who did venture into the mountain region the Viet Cong captured them, both Vietnamese and Americans, and held them as prisoners of war. As we trekked through the fern laden area with our heavy feet crackling the branches, I tried to imagine what it would be like as a soldier venturing through the area. The forest actually held more than one enemy—tigers, poisonous snakes and the tough Viet Cong soldiers.

Each step I took, I was locked in a day dream. Thinking about the brave American and Vietnamese soldiers, who fought side-by-side, struggling to find their way through the dense fauna and slippery red clay, knowing that Viet Cong soldiers may be hiding, patiently waiting, to pounce at any moment. I realized regardless of how much I read or watch on TV I will never understand the level of bravery put forth by our soldiers who fought for their lives, in a foreign land, in a war that many didn’t understand.

As I trudged along the make shift path with my walking stick the thoughts stayed with me. We talked to our guide a little bit about the American War. The majority of Vietnamese people, including him, explain: “that was yesterday”, “today is today” and “tomorrow is tomorrow”. If only everyone could embrace this refreshing Buddhist attitude…

Dalat, The Foggy City...

Dalat, Vietnam

June 21, 2007
N 11°56.529
E 108°26.398

Dalat, a mountain town, is located at approximately 4900 feet above sea-level, providing a much needed break from the heat for a few days. I think we all cheered when we saw fog hovering over the picturesque mountain side, clearly visible as we made our way around the lake near the center of the city. The refreshing climate of Dalat is perfect for revitalizing the entire gang over the next four days; then we all go our separate ways and back into the fray of the big cities of Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) and back to Hanoi for Bob and Teddy.

Although the population of Dalat is nearly 140,000 it doesn’t have many tourists since it’s a solid six hour bus ride into the mountains. Young children still peer at us, suspiciously at first, until we speak a polite “hello” and they giggle and run away. The street peddlers don’t really exist, which is a welcome change after the on-top of you vendors in the larger Vietnamese cities we’ve visited.

Those who are selling food and wares on the street keep their eyes peeled for police; quickly packing up their belongings and taking off in all directions at the first sight of the cops. The sight was reminiscent of Canal Street in New York City, where each store front has a tarp that quickly drops, hiding their faux handbags, sunglasses and watches before the police cite them.

Marc and I set out for a walk around the lake, stopping occasionally to say hello to the many young men with their fishing rods in the water, for a little exercise and to see what Dalat had to offer. The forward thinking city appears to have put a lot of effort into creating perfectly manicured gardens in areas surrounding the lake. One of the parks serves as a hot spot for children to fly their kites on a windy day. Unfortunately, with the scattered rain today, we didn’t see too many kites in the sky, but still enjoyed the park as children ran around with their friends, attempted to launch kites with their grandparents and always kept a curious eye on us.

After our walk around the lake, we made our way down a small alley that appeared to be the original market street of Dalat. The street bustled with locals who obviously preferred the open-air and old-school charm over the stores in the town center. Women squatting on the ground were selling silver smelt, chunks of tuna, squid, and a variety of other fresh fish that most likely came from Nha Trang. The smell of food filled the air as clouds of gray smoke poured from coal barbeques. In other stalls fresh vegetables, growing perfectly in the cooler climate, were displayed on blue tarps spread-out along the cobblestone street. Our slow pace through the market afforded us plenty of time to smile at the locals, dodge scooters, say hello to the curious kids and give a polite wave.

All of us our very pleased with the relaxing feel of Dalat and happy to call it home for the next few days.

Everyone Deserves a Second Chance...

Nha Trang, Vietnam

June 20, 2007
N 12°14.127
E 109°11.195

Guest Writer: Elise Tuttle

Shortly after settling into Nha Trang, I realized that it was not the quiet beach town I was looking forward to. Turned off by the very large, carnival-like crowds at the beach, we made plans to give the city one full day and then move on to Da Lat.

Our guide book suggested a boat tour of the 4 islands near Nha Trang. With it costing only $5, I figured we couldn’t go wrong. Upon arriving on the boat we were promised a lovely day of snorkeling, lunch, singing and dancing with a live band, and wine (all included in the $5 price). Since our guide was quite the jokester, I wasn’t sure what to expect. To my surprise every single one of his promises was fulfilled.

On the way out to the first island they played a mix of classic jams including Hansen Brothers, The Beatles, Britney Spears, and of course my favorite Whitney! I took this as a sign that the boat trip was going to be awesome. Snorkeling was nice although Marc and Laura were not impressed since they had spent time at the Great Barrier Reef less than a month ago. The main attraction was being able to cool off for a second in the water.

A beautiful lunch was prepared on the stern of the boat, on the deck right next to the bathroom. In preparation for lunch we lined the edges of the boat in order for the crew to fold the middle seats down into a communal table. During lunch I was overwhelmed by the generosity and kindness displayed by all the Vietnamese people on the boat (our family comprised five of the 9 Westerners on the boat). Plates and plates of food were being passed our direction. It seemed everyone was looking out for us, making sure we were having a good time and getting enough to eat. Or, maybe they were just trying to make sure the “big big” Americans didn’t get irritable.

After lunch, the plates were cleared and out came the band (young crew members of the boat). The drum set consisted of rusted metal frames with a duct tape face. The electric guitar had a surfer sound to it and at the end of each intro I was expecting to hear “Wipe Out.” And of course, there was a tambourine. What was once our dining table now turned into the dance floor/stage. The boat crew and guests all joined in for a karaoke extravaganza! The jam session alone was worth the $5.

After the show it was time for a dip and they were serving wine on the floating bar (a piece of dirty Styrofoam). Only there was one problem… the toilet was being drained and its contents (Baby Ruth's and all) were floating by where we wanted to jump into the water. Most of the people on the boat either didn’t seem to mind or didn’t notice, but I wasn’t too thrilled about diving into a bunch of poop. Luckily, Marc gave me the push I needed and I was in the water before I could even blurt out some obscenities. I made sure I kept my mouth shut and swam as fast as I could away from the boat. I guess that is what family is for! Marc and Laura were close behind and between the three of us we were able to choke down the wine that tasted like cough medicine. (It was very similar to Boone’s… a local Dalat Mulberry wine.)

After returning from the boat trip it was time for some much needed beer from the micro brewery we had tested out the night before. As we were sipping our fresh, cold beer, the topic of dinner came up. Someone suggested lobster from the stand on the sidewalk across the street from the beach. I had never had lobster before and figured this was the best place to try it—a lobster and 2 beers were under $10. As we approached the “restaurant” we saw two of the friends, locals, we had made on the boat earlier that day. He told us the food was excellent and made sure the chef knew we were his friends so he would treat us right. I got to pick my lobster out of the bowl of live lobsters. It was weighed and thrown onto the grill (a pan on the ground filled with coal covered by a wire rack. The coal was kept hot by women who were fanning it with large leaves). We took our seats on the playschool furniture that is becoming all too familiar and everybody else agreed that this was the biggest lobster they had ever eaten. If you are wondering how I liked my first lobster, let’s just say I had to catch myself before I instinctively reached for a dime sized piece that had fallen to the sidewalk below. And, I was overcome with joy when Laura announced that she found a hiding place for more meat in one of the larger legs.

With full bellies, we made our way back to the hotel to rest for our bus ride to Da Lat in the morning. A surprisingly wonderful day in Nha Trang reminded me that even though first impressions are usually right, everyone (and everywhere) deserves a second chance.

A Mom in Vietnam...

Nha Trang, Vietnam

June 20, 2007
N 12°14.127
E 109°11.195

Guest Writer: Teddy Tuttle (Marc’s mom)

Even though Nha Trang has wide sidewalks unlike any other city we have visited, we continue to walk like a covey of quail. It started in Hanoi as we followed each other single file through the narrow alleys and marketplaces in order not to be mowed down by the ever present throng of motor-scooters coming from all directions. Then onto Hue and Hoi An where the narrow sidewalks were completely taken over by parked motor-scooters, sand, gravel, bricks and construction workers. Thus, we continued to walk in the streets, onto the curbs, down into the gutters, back onto the sidewalk (briefly); what should have been a mile seemed to become two miles due to the dodging, weaving, ups and downs. All the while messages were being passed from front to rear, middle to back like a game of “telephone.” Being that I am usually the one in the back of the covey, I often wonder how the comment has changed by the time it reaches me.

From Hanoi to Hue to Hoi An to Nha Trang we are recognized as “the American family”. The Vietnamese have a real affection for family, smiling and nodding as they figure out we’re together – a family. Then they want to know if there are more of us back in America – “oh, yes”, we tell them and then go through the list: daughter, sons, son in law, daughter in law and grandchild.

There certainly is an interest in speaking English among all ages of the Vietnamese people. Riding on the train was one of Bob’s favorite events, making his way down the very narrow hallway and seeing the families gathered around in the very compact sleeper cars. Becoming engaged in conversations where the subject matter was limited but the openness to attempt some understanding was generous. Bob became good friends with our sixth bunkmate by going through the language section of “Lonely Planet” and attempted the local language with his new friend. When they didn’t understand each other, they simply exchanged warm smiles with the unintelligible sounds that were exchanged.

Saved by Excess Luggage...

Nha Trang, Vietnam

June 19, 2007
N 12°14.127
E 109°11.195

The flight from Hoi An to Nha Trang was uneventful, even on the small twin-prop plane. When our plane touched down in Nha Trang we planned to grab our packs and walk the ½ mile to our hotel for the night. Elise took the overnight bus and already scouted out a place for us.

We strapped our packs on our back and thought about the short walk. However, since we now had an extra bag full clothes from Hoi An (bought just for this purpose), we opted to take a cab. The plan is for me to carry back the goods for Bob, Teddy and I when I fly to San Diego next week, and we’ll be back down to our two backpacks and a single day pack again… oh, the sacrifices that must be made in the name of fashion.

As soon as we turned out of the airport we were pleased with our decision to take the cab. The road didn’t have any sidewalks and there were several cars and scooters zipping by. Shortly after making the right turn towards town I saw a sign that said Nha Trang 23 KM. “What the heck?” I said to the crew in the car. It was only supposed to be a half mile from the airport according to our Lonely Planet—it’s a good thing we didn’t try to walk. We would have looked like complete imbeciles stumbling down the remote road and most likely would have succumbed to the heat after 5-10 KM; I could imagine the CNN International News Story… “4 Americans Die in Vietnam, Bag of Tailor Made Clothes May Provide Answers.”

The ride took at least 40 minutes and we were at least 30 minutes late meeting Elise at our pre-determined destination. I quickly explained the situation to her and showed her our book. Elise opened her book, which was published a year after ours in 2006, and showed me where her map said “old Nha Trang Airport.”

Oh well, we made it to Nha Trang after all, not exactly the sleepy beach town we were looking for as thousands of locals sprawled out across the beach, but it was a really good thing we didn’t try to walk.

Whew... A Not So Happy Ending!

Hoi An, Vietnam

June 17, 2007
N 15°53.883
E 108°21.965

Bob raved about the facial, massage and shave he had at a little “spa” near our hotel; he was so relaxed Teddy and I figured we had to have at least a neck and shoulder massage. Bob escorted us to the spa and introduced us to his friends and explained “same, same” for Teddy and I.

We were handed a towel and told to take everything off, but since we were only having our back and shoulders done, or so we thought, we left on our bathing suit bottoms. We came back out, climbed up on the table face-up and Bob’s crew started in on a very relaxing facial. A refreshing cold towel, smelling of fresh cucumber, was placed on my face, instantly cooling me off. This is nice we thought, nice and relaxing.

Next, the young Vietnamese boys, neither weighing more than 90 pounds, did a great job massaging our pectoral muscles, but at times getting a little too close to my big bigs for my comfort. I knew Teddy was a little skeptical since she isn’t big on massages to begin with… plus I was a little confused why my boobs needed massaging when we were only supposed to have our back and shoulders done. After about 15-20 minutes the young boys told us to flip over on our stomachs.

This is when things started to get a little bizarre for my liking. After a thorough gluteus massage, the kid climbed up on the table and stood on my butt. He teetered with one foot on my boot and used the other foot to massage my shoulders. I guess this was better than his hands since he had one long thumb-nail that would occasionally scratch my skin when massaging my shoulders with his petite hands.

The circus act was just a warm up for what was next. He continued with the buttock massage, but it was more like a shaking action… right on my tailbone. As my boot started shimmying I squeezed my cheeks together, not sure if this was supposed to be some sexual thing—I sure the hell hope not, but my quick gluteal reaction stopped him in his tracks, almost bouncing him off the table.

It was all just getting more bizarre by the minute and I finally made an effort to look over my shoulder to see exactly what the little gnat was doing on my back. I looked back and the guy was straddling my thighs, hands on my butt, shaking it in a gyrating motion, but now had a towel over his head. Again, I tensed up the cheeks and he stopped, I peeked over at Teddy lying next to me to see if she was okay with this motion and I could tell from the look of horror on her face, she was not enjoying the performance!

Luckily, the kids quickly wrapped up the massage; we paid and got the hell out of there. We laughed the whole way home, not sure what the whole act was about, but we were happy to share the story with Bob, Elise and Marc. I know we weren’t looking for a happy ending and we didn’t get one!

Shopping Spree in Hoi An...

Hoi An, Vietnam

June 16, 2007
N 15°53.883
E 108°21.965

The bus pulled into Hoi An on Friday around 1:00 PM. The whole gang fell into the steamy air outside and headed towards our preferred hotel. Hoi An is a dusty, but quickly growing little village with broken sidewalks, streets scattered with pot-holes and a bustling clothing industry that quickly sucks you in. It was one of the major trading centers of Southeast Asia from the period of the 15th to 19th centuries and was name into the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1999.

However, today it’s famous for literally hundreds of dress shops lining the streets, sewing machines running 24x7 (except for when the power is out), and it’s very easy to find a petite local woman willing to customize an outfit (or two, or three) for you, and most likely reminding you of your physical insecurities at the same time.

Elise and I immediately set out to scout out a few shops where we just might want to get something made. Our first stop was only half a block down the street from our hotel. I tried on two dresses, they took measurements, and I was told to come back the next day for the final product. Wow, that was easy. Now I need shoes… not a problem. The lady from the dress shop escorted us across the street to a shoe shop. I picked out a shoe, got my feet stenciled, chose fabric, and was told to come back the next day. I was on a roll and couldn’t stop there, we wanted to see what else Hoi An had to offer.

A little further down the street we found another cute dress, they took my measurements, and told me to come back the next day. It was like Vegas for clothing… just one jackpot after another. Now the trick was memorizing all the places I had to come back to and make sure I had enough money to settle my outstanding debts.

The next day, Saturday, was pick up day. Elise, Marc and I headed to the first shop, King Cloth Shop, where I tried on the dresses, they were all a perfect fit. The two sisters pushed hard to sell more clothes to me, Marc and Elise. We politely declined and headed out to pick up the rest of my items.

The next dress, made of silk, turned out perfect, but trying it on was a challenge in the sweltering heat. I was already a sweaty mess and it didn’t help that the power was out throughout the town the entire day (a regular occurrence) meaning NO FANS or AC! I took the dress off as fast as I put it on to prevent the whole thing from being destroyed.

It didn’t stop there… I was hooked.

In the middle of the night I woke up dreaming about the perfect shoes to match the silk dress. The dress highlights my eyes perfectly, emerald green silk with a gold hue, a cream border and embroidery on the bottom. I dreamt of simple cream sandals, a small heel, and embroidery across the toe. You know you’re in deep when you’re dreaming about clothes you can have made.

Why stop there… a little purse made to match the whole ensemble would be perfect, only $7.00. Hit me, hit me again! Just like gambling… now, I had another day of running around and still owing people around town money, but the finished product was well worth it. The best part… the whole outfit cost under $33.

If you visit Hoi An come prepared to get measured and bring a picture of something from your favorite designer, they’ll make it for you… it’s same, same, but different.

Other notes: In between everyone’s dress fittings we rented some bikes and rode the 3.1 miles to the beach. There were a group of young local kids sitting near us taking pictures. After the third time I heard the shutter I had to ask them to stop. I am sure they posted big, big somewhere on the internet.