South East Asia Wrap-Up...

Vietnam:
Vietnam takes a little getting used to, especially during the sweltering hot summer. After landing at Hanoi International Airport we took the 45 minute drive into the Old Quarter of Hanoi, already dripping in sweat. A sea of scooters zigzagged around our van, some coming straight at us driving on the wrong side of the road; it was like a mad swarm of bees. After arriving in the Old Quarter, the scooters don’t let up, but the beauty and nuances of the city begin to sink in.

We traveled from North to South during our three weeks in Vietnam, starting in Hanoi and finishing in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). This itinerary gave us different perspectives of the government affiliations, the people, the climate and the food. It appears the North still believes in the changing communist government and the messages they broadcast over loud speakers throughout the city, but as we moved south we met people, who whispered and looked over their shoulders, as they discussed their dislike for the government and the need for more rapid change. There is a lot of hope in the country as policies gradually shift and relations with the USA and the EU improve.

Almost frantic construction could be seen in nearly every town; hotels, business complexes and housing. However, the building of much needed infrastructure appeared to be lagging far behind. Those who suffered most, stripped of their nationality and heritage, were always close in the background; they scrapped by, trying to make a living for their family; that is if they were lucky enough to have a family. Many of those who ended up in “re-education” camps after the war are too poor to support a family. The government won’t allow them to work, give them a place to live, and many scrape by on the streets of the large cities. A lot of these people were once teachers, doctors, or other professionals, but they made a mistake in the eyes of the government—they fought for freedom.

Overall, our experience in Vietnam was a positive one, with some definite highlights in terms of sites, shopping and food. The fact that we traveled as a family—Bob, Teddy, Elise, Marc and I—made it an experience that none of us will ever forget. As a family, we also gained the respect of the Vietnamese locals, who smiled brightly when they realized we were indeed a family.

We highly recommend starting in Hanoi and finishing in Saigon. The route still goes from crazy to crazier, but at least Hanoi gets you ready for what is to come in the insane streets of Saigon.

Cambodia:
After finally escaping the chaos of Saigon, we were happy to land in Siem Reap, Cambodia. The vibe in the tourist town was a lot different than in Saigon or other parts of Vietnam. There will still people pushing product, such as postcards, tuk-tuk rides, or tours, but they were more laid back, without the in-your-face approach.

Tourists come to Siem Reap for one reason—to see the great Ankor Wat. We explored several temples during our time in Siem Reap including Tomb Raider, but nothing really compares to the vast structure that is Ankor Wat. The architecture and detail is incredible and then to think the imposing structure was built over 800 years ago. It is truly an amazing feat and well worth the time in Siem Reap.

Cambodia as a whole still suffers from the monstrosities dealt by its government, led by Pohl Pot in the late 70s and early 80s. Millions of educated and outspoken people were killed during the communist regime; ultimately leaving the country full of farmers and laborers. The lasting effects can still be seen. Their desire for education is seriously curbed by the lack of teachers at both the elementary and university levels. Additionally, without doctors, infant mortality rates are between 6-8% and prevention and treatment for common diseases is nearly non-existent. Further, lacking scientists and engineers, the country suffers from inadequate infrastructure and scientific advances. There’s no one to build much needed bridges, roads and power plants or direct them with agriculture advances, food preservation and distribution techniques.

We were personally touched by the people in Cambodia clearly trying to rise and get their country back on track. They all seemed to have hope. However, the poverty was like nothing we’ve ever seen—even in India. We would have loved to have adopted at least one of the poor children if we could, but that really only solves a small part of the overall problem.

The country has a long way to go, but we can do our part by visiting, and making donations to legitimate organizations such as Red Cross, Land Mine eradication efforts, etc. I know we’ll go back—soon.

Laos:
As soon as we landed in Luang Prabang we knew we were in for something special. The people outside of the airport didn’t seem one bit interested in us, or where we were staying that night; we even had to ask for a taxi ride into town. In Vietnam, and even Cambodia, we had hoards of people waiting for us outside of the terminal to give us cheap accommodations, taxi rides, or great deals on an all inclusive tours.

We were shocked at how reserved the people in Laos were, but we absolutely loved it. Of course there were a few peddlers along the main street selling jewelry and other handicrafts, but you only had to tell them No, Thank You once and they would simply move on and leave us alone. When we were looking for a ride to the local waterfall we actually had to find our own tuk-tuk driver to drive us the 60KM to the crystal blue pools in the neighboring mountainside.

As we traveled outside of Luang Prabang to the more remote sections of Laos, we felt like we were by ourselves in nature. There were very few tourists, no cars, and no motor scooters. Many times the only mode of transportation was by boat, bicycle or walking. We also had a very special experience helping out Roger Vanderbeek, whom we met in South America; delivering money for school to his adopted family.

Overall, Laos was an incredible experience and will not soon be forgotten. We hope the country can retain its relaxed, rustic and innocent quality for years to come.

Thailand:
As soon as we crossed the river from Huay Xin, Laos to Thailand, we knew we were back into a commercialized society. There was only one bank (no ATM), on the Laos side, but on the Thailand side of the river there were ATMs at nearly every corner, it had 7-11s, Toyota dealerships, and Internet cafés throughout the town. It’s crazy how two countries within such so close proximity can be so different.

After relaxing for a few days in northern Thailand (Chiang Rei and Chiang Mai) we headed south to the beautiful beaches of Koh Phi Phi Don. The tropical setting was a perfect way to unwind after several months of constant travel. August is the rainy season in the South, but we lucked out and had perfect weather. The beaches of Thailand are gorgeous and the locals need tourism dollars as they are still recovering from the Tsunami of 2005.

After several nights on the island we spent a few days in Bangkok before leaving South East Asia. We’re still amazed how much the city has changed. Our last visit was in 2001 and we found the city to be dirty, difficult to get around, and, worst of all, the child prostitution was rampant. Now, there is an excellent public transportation system, the shanties that riddled the city are gone, and the government has done a lot to curb the child prostitution. There are signs everywhere discouraging sex tourists, and that sex with under aged children is still a crime and will not be tolerated. This doesn’t mean the sex industry has gone away completely. However, the sleazy guys in alleys offering young girls to you as walk past seem to be gone or at least hidden very well.

Top Sites in South East Asia:
Ankor Wat, Cambodia—Words cannot do justice to this awesome architectural feat. I am truly baffled as to why this wasn’t named one of the Seven Wonders of the World…it truly is amazing. Absolute MUST SEE!

Halong Bay, Vietnam—this is another must see on any itinerary to Vietnam. Located two hours north of Hanoi, the sea of over 2000 islands is spectacular. It’s a surreal experience as you sail between the dotted islands on a junk boat. Stay at least one night on the boat. As you wake up to the islands surrounding you in the morning, you won’t regret it.

Shopping and Food in Hoi An, Vietnam—This was one of my favorite stops in Vietnam. Not only can you get suits, dresses, and shoes custom made for you within 24 hours, but you can try some of the best food in Vietnam. The local specialties Cao Lau (special noodles with spicy pork) and White Rose (shrimp dumplings) can be found on almost every menu. However, the best meal was at Café de Amis where the menu rotates every night.

Koh Phi Phi Don, Thailand—this is a perfect place to relax and get away from everything. The remote island is accessible by ferry via Krabi and has some great beaches to work on the tan. The crowd can sometimes be a little young, and the bars tend to cater to the party scene. Try to stay at Bayside, which is at the end of the beach, and easy to escape whatever party—full moon, half moon, or backpackers—at Hippies. Make sure to catch at least one of the fire shows at the beach bars. Also, make sure to eat at Tuk’s BBQ along the waterfront. It’s definitely not fancy, just a few tables set-up along the ocean wall, but the BBQ chicken and corn is the best in town!

Northern Countryside of Laos—as we trekked through the rice paddies of northern Laos we were shocked at our calm and isolated surroundings. The only people we saw were locals as we walked through the village to find Roger’s adopted family. The experience of delivering the package made Laos special, but we were able to understand how Roger fell in love with this place.

Top Meals in South East Asia (in chronological order of visit):

Restaurant on Corner of Hang Buom and Hang Glay—Hanoi, Vietnam. We found this little place where the locals were eating—we had to try it. The restaurant is set out on the sidewalk where patrons sit on preschool sized plastic tables that disappear during the day. The kitchen was right on the street within sight where all of the meat was grilled. The place was so great we went back a second night.

Banh Mi—Hanoi, Vietnam. We had to walk in circles to find the sandwich maker on the streets of Hanoi, but when we finally found her we were ecstatic. The tasty grilled beef sandwiches, served on a fresh baguette, were glazed with a spicy sauce and topped with cucumbers and cilantro. Yum!

Mandarin Cafe—Hue, Vietnam. This restaurant recently moved to a larger location down the street. The building is slightly unfinished as the owner, Mr. Cu, plans to display his beautiful photography on the walls. There are books of photos that Mr. Cu has displayed in France and Italy. We even saw a few of his photos in Dalat.

Mermaid—Hoi An, Vietnam. We had a spicy beef pot that had the flavors I expected in Vietnam—they were incredible. It was almost like a curry and the sauce was excellent poured over a little rice.

Café de Amis—Hoi An, Vietnam. This restaurant had a fixed menu each night. We were able to order seafood, vegetarian or meat. Since there were five of us we were able to try all three!

Hong Phuc Restaurant—Hoi An, Vietnam. This place is known for its fish wrapped in banana leaves, which was incredible, but I really liked the spicy stir fried chicken. The blend of chilies, garlic, ginger and lemongrass was a nice blend on top of rice.

Hai’s—Hoi An, Vietnam. I was very comfortable at Hai’s from the moment we walked into the place. This was confirmed when I read the note on the menu, “No MSG and all vegetables are cleaned in purified water.” We didn’t have problems at any other places, but the note was refreshing. The chicken with rice was the best we had in Hoi An.

Lobster Street Side—Nha Trang, Vietnam. We had fabulous lobster grilled on the street with a tasty lime sauce. At 180,000 dong per Kilo the lobster was a real bargain. We sat on the street on the preschool table and chairs slurping every last bite of lobster out of the shell.

Pho 2000—Saigon, Vietnam. We only had what I consider to be excellent Pho in two places in Vietnam and this was one of them (the other was in a remote hillside village of Dalat). The simple, yet complex tasting, broth was exactly what I had been craving since arriving in Vietnam. It’s a large operation, but they’ve got the recipe perfect!

Chiang Rai Night Market—Chiang Rai, Thailand. This was the first place we had authentic, spicy Thai food. The food in restaurants was tamed down and catered more towards tourists than locals.

Cooking Class—Chiang Mai, Thailand. We learned how to cook up our own Tom Yum soup, green curry and spring rolls. Since we were cooking, we could spice it up to our liking—Yum!

Cabbages and Condoms—Bankgok, Thailand. We first visited this restaurant in 2001 and really enjoyed it. The tourists have definitely changed the food in this place, but if you ask for spicy they will fire it up for you, but you must insist. The garden setting is very nice with fans and misters running all the time.

Tuk’s BBQ—Koh Phi Phi Don, Thailand. This guy on the waterfront grills up some mean chicken and corn. We frequented this place at least three nights during our eight on the island. The price was right, the food was fresh and we enjoyed it every time.

Don’t Miss these Towns:
Hoi An, Vietnam
Dalat, Vietnam
Siem Reap, Cambodia
Luang Prabang, Laos
Koh Phi Phi Don Island, Thailand

Not Worth the Stop:
Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), Vietnam—It is hard to say this historical city isn’t worth the stop, so check it out, but get out as soon as possible. The traffic, scooters and dense population make the place a madhouse. If you’re looking for the Saigon of old, where people meandered through the streets as women and men rode their bikes along side them, it doesn’t exist anymore. Saigon is now a major commercial city in a communist country frenetically fighting its way towards capitalism. If you stay too long it will either consume you or make you crazy… or both.

Udomxai, Laos—This is a passing point from Nong Kaiw to the Thailand border. The town sits in a small valley that is filled with smog. It’s best to keep moving through here without even one night in the smog filled town.

Best, and only, Brewery:
Le Louisiane. Nha Trang, Vietnam. This small little brewery is located right on the beach in Nah Trang. The microbrewery was a nice change from the typical lagers served throughout South East Asia.

Best Lodging:

Note: These are places we personally stayed. All prices are estimates at the time of our visit and are displayed in USD.

Also of note: Our accommodations varied throughout South East Asia. In Vietnam, we had a few beautiful rooms, especially in Hoi An, for no more than $25/night. In Laos, we averaged $4.82 during our twelve nights in the country. It would have been very difficult to spend more on a room in Laos if we tried. However, the rooms were sparse, some with an outhouse for a toilet and a tub of water for a bathing. It was all part of the experience.

Thanh Xuan. Hoi An, Vietnam. This beautiful hotel had a nice pool with a restaurant poolside. The stunning lobby with a miniature waterfall and Coy Pond would have been $300 in Hawaii, but the price was far less here. There was free internet in the lobby and Wi-Fi in the rooms. Double room: ~$18Bayside Resort. Koh Phi Phi Don, Thailand. Each bungalow has a view of the water from a private balcony. It is a perfect spot to enjoy a beer in the evening. The buffet breakfast is superb. Private Bungalow: ~$50

Millennium Hilton Bangkok. Bangkok, Thailand—This brand new hotel along the riverfront in Bangkok is well worth the money. Make sure to check out the rooftop bar with views of the entire city. Double room: ~$100+

Dreams Hotel. Dalat, Vietnam. We felt right at home at the Dreams hotel. The proprietor understands quality and expects her entire staff to adhere to her high quality standards. They do not push travel services, will tell you when something is too expensive, and are very professional. The staff gives straight advice to help the traveler save some money. Double room: ~$20

Wat’s Up? Guesthouse Siem Reap, Cambodia. This fairly new place was clean and only a short walk from the main part of town; right around the corner from the Golden Banana Guesthouse. The breakfast is descent and is served on top of the rooftop veranda. Double room: ~$20