Pat, I Would Like to Buy a Vowel ...

Kunta Hora, Czech Republic

August 31, 2007
N49°57.014
E015°16.437

We allowed ourselves plenty of time to navigate the Prague train station. We even had a dry run the day before when we purchased our tickets, this ended up being a blessing since the majority of the signs are in Czech and all announcements over the public address system are in Czech.

The signage in the train station was like a Pat Sajak nightmare; please, for the love of God, will somone please buy a freakin’ vowel! Deciphering the consonant laden words like: “Vlak”, “Jizdenku”, “Odjezd”, “Vchod” and “Vychod” was comical for the Czech challenged, like us.

After wandering around the grimy station for 10-15 minutes, we found the platform where our train would be arriving and moved towards the front; distancing ourselves from the large crowd of people congregating near the rear of the platform. When the train arrived, at a little before noon, we boarded and found an empty compartment, stowed our luggage and stretched out for our one hour journey east to the UNESCO city of Kunta Hora.

Fifteen minutes into our train ride the conductor came around to collect tickets. I handed him our tickets and gave him a nice smile. He said something to us in Czech, and now Marc and I were both smiling and nodding our heads. The other passenger in our large, comfy compartment apparently advised the conductor we don’t speak Czech. “Ahh,” the conductor said turning to us and now speaking English, “You need to move seats… this is first class cabin and you bought second class ticket.”

Not even realizing we had a first class option, we got up, grabbed our gear, and moved to the next car of the train. The second class compartments were packed, people were standing and sitting in the hallways, so we just grabbed a spot near the window and enjoyed the view for rest of the trip. Not a big deal, even second class on this train was heaven compared to the cramped sleeping compartment on the Night Train from Hanoi.

Arriving in Kunta Hora we realized we missed our short connection to the town center since our train left Prague ten minutes late. We figured we could jump on a bus, but we only had a 2000 Czech Crown note (equivalent to $100 bill). Since there wasn’t anywhere to change the bill in or around the station and no sign of a taxi, we studied the map a little and decided we would have to walk the two miles into town.

This is when we met Claire and Spencer, a young couple from London. Just as we were walking away from the train station I looked back and saw Spencer coming towards us. The two came from Prague on the same train as us and were in Kunta Hora for their friend’s wedding. They actually had a cell phone, called a cab, and offered to share the cab with us. We gladly accepted and graciously thanked them.

We figured we would share the cab to Claire and Spencer’s destination and then try to find a place to stay the night. When the cab pulled into the driveway of their penzion, we looked at our guide book and realized it was actually the same place we were going to attempt to find a room. We were a little worried there wouldn’t be any available rooms due to the wedding, but were pleased when the young receptionist advised us a double was available. After checking in we pulled on some warm clothes, since the weather was becoming cold and gray, and headed into town for a bite to eat.

On our way out we bumped into Claire and Spencer and we suggested they let us buy them a beer since we couldn’t pay them for the cab ride. We found a nice restaurant near the town center and enjoyed a simple meal, wonderful conversation, and shared a few travel stories.

As they headed off to enjoy the pre-wedding festivities, we went out to explore the village. We had a great time weaving our way through the small alleyways of the UNESCO town, admiring the churches, museums and other historical landmarks before heading back to our room for a break.

We’re delighted we had the time to visit this little gem and see a different part of the Czech Republic; meeting Claire and Spencer was just a bonus.

A Top 5 City?

Prague, Czech Republic

August 30, 2007
N50°04.920
E014°24.425

Our time in Prague has been pretty relaxing. We’ve spent the majority of our days wandering through the city admiring the views and the vast, luscious green parks. We quickly travel from neighborhood to neighborhood by jumping on the metro or trolleys. It’s so refreshing to be in an efficient, clean, city; plus the weather is wonderful… cool and clear.

Our favorite park, Letna Park, perched high on the hill, surrounded by shade trees, is parallel to the river, and just a few kilometers from Prague Castle. It has a beer garden, with dozens of picnic tables and is frequented by mostly locals. The sweet smell of fresh cannabis occasionally drifts through the air as people relax and drink their cold beer, enjoying the sun and gazing across the river back into the town center. In other sections of the park, playground equipment is set-up for kids to play as their parents look on while, yep; you guessed it, enjoying a beer.

As we head out to explore other parts of the Czech Republic, we both agree Prague is a stunning city. The cobblestone streets, which aren’t laid out in a grid or any other pattern, are a challenge to navigate, but that makes it all part of the fun. I wouldn’t be surprised if Prague ends up on our Top 5 City list by the end of the trip…if not Top 5, then definitely Top 10.

Of course, we do have a lot left to see…

Getting Lost With a Purpose...

Prague, Czech Republic

August 28, 2007
N50°04.920
E014°24.425

We quickly discovered Prague is a difficult city to navigate, possibly the most difficult we’ve experienced to date. We’re always up for the challenge and don’t care if we get “lost” every now and then. In fact, getting lost in a new city is part of the fun; allowing you to see things you might not otherwise see, and meet people you might not meet.

Our goal for the day was to explore the massive Prague Castle and take a self-guided walking tour outlined in our Lonely Planet; passing many of the main sites and possibly strolling into a few beer halls for a break.

As we slowly climbed the Old Castle Steps the sweeping views of the city to our left were astonishing. The bridges, including the famous Charles Bridge, were beautiful and buzzing with traffic; pedestrians, cars, and trams scurried from one side of the river to the other. We pulled ourselves away from the lookout point and walked through the entrance of the Prague Castle; guarded by two very stern looking Czech soldiers.

We walked into a long passageway, packed with tourists, before we arrived in the Third Courtyard. Magnificent gothic-like spires of the St. Vitus Cathedral stood before us. Again, as with the Taj Mahal, we were taken aback and the only word that could describe the sight was “Wow!”

As if in a trance, we weaved our way through the people, continuously looking up at the massive structure, trying to capture as much as possible with the camera; knowing pictures will never fully do justice to the massive cathedral.

The inside of the cathedral was as impressive as the outside. Ornate stained glass, towering ceilings and extraneous side chapels, one which was adorned with semi-precious jewels, filled the awesome church. It still amazes us that something this large and detailed was built hundreds of years ago. The foundation was laid in 1344, but construction continued all the way until 1921—covering several architectural periods.

After a few hours we found ourselves wandering through the Second Courtyard, the First Courtyard and finally out the main entrance. We walked up the street to check out another unique building. The Renaissance Schwarzenberg Palace caught our attention because of the unique pattern on the outside. After sitting patiently for ten to fifteen minutes, Marc was finally able to capture an image without any tourists in front of it.

This is when we started to get a little lost… again. We knew we were going the wrong way for our walking tour, but we wanted to visit one of the famous Czech beer halls. The smoky room with large wooden picnic tables was packed with locals and tourists. Everyone shared tables, sipped cool draught beer and a few people munched on chicken fried steak or chips (potato chips). Enjoying our beer we studied our map, hoping to get our bearings, and head back onto the streets.

We weaved our way down the cobblestone pathways, in the direction we thought would link us back to the walking tour, when we found yet another famous beer hall listed in our Lonely Planet. Knowing we may never be in Prague again we figured we should stop in for another tasting and enjoy the atmosphere.

We sat down at a large table near the front of the hall, where we could look out into the street and enjoy the fresh air. A few sips into our beer a couple that appeared to be in their late 60s, nodded politely, and sat down across the table from us. They spoke only Czech and we figured they were locals.

When you order a beer in one of the beer halls, they place a piece of white note paper on your table, and simply make ticks for each beer that’s ordered. When the gentlemen across from us ordered his second beer, Marc and I commented on the efficient process. The lady, who we didn’t know spoke English, said “Yes, it is important to know what you owe.” Marc followed that up with “Yes, it’s also wise to know how many you drink.” We smiled a little and agreed we liked the simple, yet competent, way to keep track of things. We were mildly surprised that the woman spoke such good English since her and her husband were only speaking in Czech for the past 20 minutes.

When the couple asked us where we are from, we thought they were going to jump out of their seats at our response—smiles gleamed across their faces. They said they love San Francisco and their children live nearby in Dublin. Then they mentioned they had lived in a small city in the Central Valley in the 1980’s and 1990’s, Stockton. Marc proudly stated he went to the University of the Pacific (Go Tigers!) in Stockton.

We really enjoyed talking with the couple, listening to their story, and asking questions about their lives. It ends up the lady was granted permission by the communist government to move to the United States with their three kids (the oldest one was 16) in 1979, but her husband was not granted permission to leave the country until two years later in 1981. Similar to other immigrants, they came to the US with very little cash; only $48, and moved to where they could find jobs.

They perfected their English and landed jobs with the City of Stockton. They had a house near Twin Cities Road, an area Marc is very familiar with. When they reached retirement age they sold their house in California and returned to their homeland in 1999, a country that obviously changed after The Velvet Revolution, and the fall of communism, in 1989. Their children still live in California and they visit twice a year to see their grandchildren.

We believe the couple would have sat there with us for hours, and we wish they did, but they had a prior engagement with their church. They were now late because it appeared they found it difficult to pry themselves away. We really enjoyed the conversation and the excitement in their voices as they talked to us… it really is a small world.

When we finished ours beers we headed back out onto the streets, still thinking about the couple we met. We had so many questions for them about the history of the Czech Republic and their personal story about escaping the communist regime.

Navigating our way through the city and towards a restaurant for dinner we realized we were never really lost during the entire day; we were exactly where we should have been.

A New Continent, A Nice Change...

Prague, Czech Republic

August 27, 2007
N50°04.920
E014°24.425

We took the red eye from Bombay to Zurich and then continued on to Prague. It was time for another country, another language, and another currency.

It was 9:00 AM local time when we arrived in Prague. The morning weather was a little crisp for an August day; a major difference from the oppressive humidity we soaked up across SEAsia over the past three months. Needless to say, it was a very welcome change. We strapped on our packs, easily navigated the public train system and arrived at our hotel within 45 minutes. Ohh, it’s so nice to be back in a country that has process and procedures…

We got a great deal on our accommodations on Priceline.com, but couldn’t check into our room until 2:00 PM. Not a big deal, we dumped our gear in the luggage room and headed out to find the nearest café and a real cup of coffee. After our first cappuccino in over three months we wandered through a shopping mall looking for shoes and pants. We need something besides Tevas now that we’re in Europe and the weather is starting to get cool. Plus, Marc needs a new pair of pants since his khakis are now light-blue; the result of washing them with a blue shirt that seemingly won’t stop bleeding.

After Marc found a pair of shoes we headed back to our hotel a little after 2:00 PM. The walk helped us get familiar with our new neighborhood and some of the key landmarks in the area. We quickly showered to get the grime of the nine hour flight from India off of our bodies and then set out to explore our new city.

We walked through the Old Square in the center of town in complete awe. The architecture from the historical buildings ranged from Gothic to Baroque to Renaissance to Art Nouveau. At every turn we were staring up at another impressive building like nothing we’ve ever seen.

The day ended with dinner in a microbrewery where we enjoyed beef dumplings and a half liter of tasty beer—our first non-lager beer in months. We knew we had just scratched the surface of the sites in Prague, but if day-one was any indication of what lies ahead, we are in for a real treat.

Bye-Bye Bombay...

Mumbai (Bombay), India

August 25-26, 2007
N 18°57.250
E 072°48.667

When we arrived in Bombay a little over a week ago, Abbas advised us there isn’t a lot to do in Bombay except eat and drink. Abbas and Zainab ensured us we would hit some of the best places in Bombay, but at the same time enjoy proper meals in the comfort of their home. After six nights in Bombay, I have to admit, we ate our way through the city just like Abbas promised!

Night clubs were on the agenda as well. The night life in Bombay is buzzing with activity as all the hipsters hit the clubs to drink, dance, gossip, and listen to thumping house music. The women are beautiful; all immaculately dressed, with perfect hair, and sparkling jewelry — as if they just left the set of the latest Bollywood movie.

Below is just a sample of the food we enjoyed during our visit. This doesn’t include the fabulous breakfasts and lunches we ate at home, all prepared by Abbas and Zainab’s cook, which were outstanding. We both loved all the food; however, I think Marc’s favorite part of eating in India was eating his meal with his hand (right hand only) and not using utensils. I have to say—I enjoyed it too.

Dining:
Bade Miya, located in Colaba—we hit this place around 11:30 PM the night we arrived in Bombay. The popular take-away place is located on a small dark street (more like an alley) that has a few tables for walk-up customers, but the majority of the customers eat on the trunk (or boot) of their car. Smoke from the grill, placed right on the sidewalk, filled the air as horns honked and people piled into the area looking to score their late night fix of tika.

A waiter takes your order and then tosses a few newspapers across the trunk before returning with plates of tender chicken tikka, lamb, and mutton. The dinner isn’t complete without mint chutney on the side, spooned over the meat, as you use the piping hot roomali roti to scoop up the tasty treat. This was one of our favorite meals in Bombay, for both the atmosphere and the food!

Samrat, located in Churchgate—we experienced this typical Indian vegetarian restaurant that serves Thali the day after Sana’s big birthday party. Different dishes, such as Chana Masala and Aloo Palak, are served in multiple small metal bowls. As soon as a bowl is empty it is refilled, and then refilled again, and refilled again, until you just can’t eat anymore. The place was packed for Sunday brunch as everyone scooped up the all-you-can eat dishes with an endless supply of roti and naan.

Trishna, located in Fort Area—this restaurant specializes in seafood and it really is some of the best seafood I have ever had. We started the meal with spicy prawns, dipped in mint chutney, and accompanied with onions and fresh lime juice.

The second course, a grilled, or possibly baked, white fish, was the star of the show. The white, flakey fish was crusted with pepper and what tasted like crushed coriander seeds. The flavors blended together perfectly, with the fish melting in our mouths. If we used forks, someone might have been stabbed in the hand; instead the one with the fastest hands got it. I would actually say this was the best fish I have EVER had!

I was still in shock over the fish, enjoying the peppery taste in my mouth, when the next course was delivered. A large, cracked crab tossed in butter, garlic and cilantro was shared among the four of us. The large crab legs had loads of sweet meat that we picked out with our fingers.

Yes, we were all stuffed to the at this point, but one more dish was delivered to our table—a traditional Indian prawn curry. The curry was served with roomali roti and naan depending on our preference—I preferred the roomali roti, Marc the naan—to each their own, right?

This is definitely the place for seafood; everything is fresh and has an Indian twist to the recipes. The restaurant was packed with locals and everyone ordered the famous specialties.

Kareem’s—this small kebab joint is located along restaurant row in Bandra West. The various takes of tandoori here are top-notch. Similarly to Bade Miya, the place serves great, consistent food in a very low key atmosphere. This was our last meal in Bombay, and it was one I will remember for a very long time.

Nightlife:
Like I mentioned, we hit several of the hot night clubs. Many of them, like New York City, are places to see and be seen. Here are a few of the places we enjoyed:

Indigo, located in Colaba—the bar of this place gets packed early as the tables are filled with diners enjoying the latest European cuisine. There are two bars, one upstairs and one downstairs, that each has their own charm. The lounge upstairs has couches that make it comfortable to sit in a group and gossip over a Belvedere martini. However, the main action is definitely in the bar downstairs, where people stand at least five deep, making a serious challenge to squeeze through to the bar for a drink.

Starwood inside Taj Mahal Palace—hip place located inside the beautiful Taj Mahal Palace and Tower. Even if you don’t stay at the Taj, a visit is a must, and you might as well grab a drink while you are in there.

The Journey Back to Bombay...

Mumbai (Bombay), India

August 23-24, 2007
N 18°57.250

E 072°48.667

The road from Agra back to Delhi was a life-or-death obstacle course.

At one point there was a cement truck that dumped its contents across the road, later a truck load of bricks was strewn about the highway, then our driver avoided the still smoldering frame of a farmer’s truck; next, three kids who had just crashed their motorbike sat there in shock—they appeared to be bleeding; there were farmers on tractors, multiple camel drawn carts, dogs (dead and alive), rickshaws, and bicycles. In addition, there was non motorized traffic consisting of men, women and children randomly darting across the highway, all seemingly oblivious to the traffic on the busy thoroughfare.

The 200 KM trip, or 124 miles, took nearly five hours of constant horn blowing and brake smashing travel… for those that don’t want to do the math that’s an average of 25 miles/hour.

As we got closer to Delhi the three lanes of traffic turned into four. Cars straddled the lines; tuk-tuks drove on the shoulder as did the smaller cars. It seemed to be complete chaos a total free-for-all. We weaved our way through the bedlam and made a few stops at some of the tourist highlights in Delhi such as the Red Fort, the Lotus Temple and the India Gate before finally arriving at our hotel.

We decided to live it up a little in Delhi and booked a night at the Intercontinental. Our room, which was on the 27th floor, looked out over the city of Delhi, the train station and the main business district of Connaught Place. The view of the train station was amazing. Watching the platform hum with activity was hypnotic; filling to maximum capacity, and emptying moments later as the train pulled away. Thousands of people just kept pouring into the station, almost materializing out of thin air; it was like watching ants cover a sugar cube.

The next morning, after reading in the local newspaper about India having the second highest number of traffic fatalities in the world (China is #1), our driver picked us up with his new wife to take us to the airport. His wife, who was visiting Delhi for her first time, comes from a remote village in northern India of only 500 people. Apparently, she was so exited about the day’s events she woke up at 4:00 AM in anticipation of making the journey to the airport to see the planes and meet her first Westerners.

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We finally landed in Mumbai around 12:30 PM and set out for home in a taxi. As you know, home is where our backpacks are, and they were still at the Merchant home.

The traffic through Bombay was pretty thick in the middle of the day and the 20 KM journey took us an hour and a half. The wealth in Bombay is apparent during the day as various high end cars such as Porsches and Mercedes zipped by, we even saw a Bentley cruising down Marine Drive. Of course, at the same time, there were plenty of hawkers selling anything from magazines to newspapers to replicas of popular books such as “Freakanomics” and “The Secret.”

The three days in Agra and Delhi went by quickly, but we were happy to be back in the comfort of the Merchant household. After the Delhi run around, we definitely felt more at home.