A Long Day, A Detour... All Saved By Beer!

Rotorua, New Zealand

April 28, 2007
S 38.08.172
E 176.14.369

When we moved our tent we had approximately 2 inches of water pooling underneath, but luckily nothing broke through the tent. With Dustin’s help, we quickly moved our tent to higher ground. Luckily, Shelby and Dustin were fine in their tent…they didn’t have the flood problem since they originally set-up on higher ground.

The rain subsided shortly after we jumped back into the tent. I was a little upset, dreaming of a nice warm room with a bed and no water pooling underneath us, but then Marc reminded me about Erinmarie Forte and her family.

I received an email a couple weeks ago explaining that Erinmarie’s entire house flooded due to the tremendous storms the Northeastern States received this winter. The backyard had 10-12 feet of water, the garage 8 feet, and the house 6 feet. They lost several of their personal belongings including gifts for their twins who just celebrated their 1st birthday the day before the flood. I quickly realized the situation I was in; on vacation, traveling around the world with a little water on my tent was nothing to be upset about. I promised to quickly forget the whole incident and think good thoughts for Erinmarie and her family as I fell asleep to the drizzle.

When we awoke the rain had finally stopped. We planned on waking up early since we had a lot of ground to cover. Our plan was to get from 90-Mile Beach to Rotorua with a few stops along the way, approx 560 KM (350 miles).

After a few basic stops for water and bathroom breaks, we decided to cut over to the east coast to check out the town of Leigh. Shelby read about a small private brewery and wanted to check it out; I read about the charming town and thought the stop would be worthwhile. Since we’re on a Road Trip we figured what the Hell… lets go!

As we approached the coast the surroundings started to look familiar. Did we go this way before? Are we backtracking? We weren’t sure, but as soon as we reached the Smashed Pipi restaurant, a tell-tale sign; we knew we had been here before. I hate being stuck in a car all day, but I hate being lost even more! I told Marc to pull-over so we could figure out where the heck we were.

It appeared we missed the cutoff to Leigh, but a friendly lady gave us perfect directions to get back on track. She explained we needed to go back about 10KM, keep straight at the School Road and then follow a gravel road that lead to Leigh. Dustin repeated the directions three times, to make sure we had them correct.

We followed her directions to a tee, but when we eventually found ourselves on a dirt road in the middle of cow and sheep pastures with two options: 1) a dead-end road or 2) a road back to the town where the friendly lady gave us the original directions.

Marc decided we were lost and figured we might as well go see what was at the end of the dead-end. After a few miles we arrived at a small lake where a man was just climbing into a kayak; obviously going out for a quick paddle.

We decided to stop for a few minutes to stretch our legs and check out the lake. Dustin quickly jumped out of the truck to catch the man who was ready to head out on his kayak. When we asked for directions the Kiwi had to pause, obviously thinking, “What the Hell are these guys doing here?” He thought for a moment and then asked where we were from before giving us the directions. It was obvious we were lost since we found this very remote lake. When we told him California, he quickly asked where, we responded. It turns out the guy grew-up in Belmont, CA and moved to New Zealand 25 years ago. He explained he was also a plumber (like Dustin) and claimed he got stuck in NZ after getting married and having a few kids. After the pleasantries, and offering Dustin a job, he advised us the best way to get to Leigh.

The road the lady told us to continue straight on was where we needed to turn right. It was almost as if the directions the “friendly” lady provided were flipped around on purpose. Of course, I couldn’t see a Kiwi giving us bogus directions on purpose; she must have thought we were going to the lake!

We finally got back on the correct path, now a 3 hour detour, and made our way towards Leigh. We arrived at the Sawmill Café and quickly noticed it was closed, but the parking lot was full of cars. We decided to pull in anyway since the brewery was one of the primary reasons we headed to Leigh.

It turned out the Sawmill Brewery was open. We walked into the cottage and immediately spotted the brewery equipment. The taps were lined up against the wall with large stainless steel vats taking up the majority of the space in the middle. We instantly forgot about the lengthy detour we just endured. The Brewmaster, Peter Freckleton, and his wife were very friendly, almost welcoming us into their home.

We tried several of the microbrews on tap before deciding to purchase the first ever four-pack of cans. The couple had just purchased a machine to seal their beer in cans and produced their first four-pack a few minutes before we arrived… and then the power in the small town went out. We also bought a 2 liter bottle of Pale Ale for good measure.
With smiles on our faces, we hit the road again and we didn’t stop until we hit Rotorua—at least four hours later.

Note: As luck would have it… when we arrived in Rotorua the town was completely booked with marathon runners. We ended up throwing up our tent at the Holiday Park hoping we don’t flood tonight.

Our Dog for the Day...

90 Mile Beach & Cape Reinga, New Zealand

April 27, 2007

S 34.25.597

E 172.40.650

Right after we pulled our tent down the rain started—sprinkling at first and quickly turning to a steady shower. We quickly tossed the rest of our stuff in the truck and got on the road. We continued towards the Far North until we hit the small town of Cooper’s Beach about one hour into our drive where we stopped for a quick lunch of peanut butter, honey and banana sandwiches.

The rain subsided and the sun came out in full force about 30 minutes before we arrived at the beach; allowing us to enjoy our lunch and explore the beach and tide pools. As we strolled north along the beach a mid-sized black dog started following us. The dog stayed in between us and the ocean, herding us away from the water, as we walked about a mile to the tide pools; at times he seemed to be anxious or nervous. He was obviously someone’s dog, but today he was our protector—keeping us out of the water and the swift ripe tides visible from the shore. The dog was very timid, not allowing us to get close enough to pet him, but wagging his tail and enjoying the whole journey.

We said goodbye to our dog and continued up the coast towards 90 Mile Beach and Cape Reinga. Again, I hoped to get a picture of the Cape Reinga lighthouse for my mom since the one on Cape Brett was being renovated. Cape Reinga is the most northern point on the North Island of New Zealand; where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet; making the lighthouse the first site many sailors view when making the journey around the Cape.

The drive to Cape Reinga was very long with the last 20 KM of the journey on a gravel road; however, the coastal scenery was worth the drive. It appeared windy outside as we pulled up to the sacred ground once occupied by the Maori tribes, but we weren’t prepared for the intensity of the wind. We opened the car doors and the wind nearly blew the door off its hinges. The wind was howling at least 60 KM per hour as the two seas collided below us. Marc tried to pull on his jacket and hold onto his camera bag at the same time—he thought he was going to lose both—I quickly grabbed the jacket and recommended he place a foot on the bag.

After dealing with the wind we made the quick trek down to the light house taking plenty of pictures along the way. In the distance we could see the white sand dunes from Te Paki Reserves alongside the bright blue water from the Tasman Sea. The scenery around the lighthouse was spectacular; white caps were jumping off the water, waves were crashing against the shoreline below us, lush green vegetation was being savaged by the winds and all the colors were intensified by the grey-blue backdrop of the sky.

After we were completely wind-blown we jumped back in the Territory and headed towards the Holiday Park about 100 KM down the road. The park was located at the most southern point of 90 Mile Beach and we hoped to catch a sunset since we were now on the west side of the island.
We got to the park, set up our tent and quickly headed to the beach. The weather didn’t cooperate with us this time; we had too many clouds to see the sun dip into the Tasman Sea. Oh well, at least I got the picture of the lighthouse for my Mom!

Other notes: I’m currently in the tent writing the blog and the rain is now coming down in buckets! The water level is rising around us and Marc is outside trying to dig a trench to protect us from the rising water.

Oh shit, Marc’s yelling that we have to move the tent because it is practically free floating in the water right… gotta go, more to come.

A Day on the Bay...

Kerikeri, New Zealand

April 26, 2007

S 35.13.706
E 173.56.441

Bright sun was shining down on our tent causing condensation to drip and hit me in the eye, quickly jolting me awake. It was right around 8:00 AM and I could hear the birds singing, ducks quacking, and the stream running only a few meters from our tent. The noise was calming and a perfect way to start the day… minus the water in the eyes.

As we drank coffee at our campsite we decided it was the perfect day to hit the Bay of Islands half-day cruise. With a cloudless sky, Shelby and I quickly walked up to the Holiday Park reception office and booked our tickets. Anxious to explore the islands, there were only two things on our mind—a day of perfect weather and the expectation of stunning scenery… just like in all the shiny tourists’ pamphlets we’ve collected.

We drove 22KM from Kerikeri to Paihia to catch the ferry to the various islands and the infamous “Hole in the Rock.” The tour was scheduled for four hours with a one hour stop-over on Otehei Island.

The catamaran set sail at precisely 1:30 PM to perfect weather. We sat on the upper deck where we could see the spectacular scenery and incandescent colors surrounding us. The bright blue water, surrounded islands of lime green pastures and dark green forests; this combined with the rainbow colors of sea kayaks treading the waters around the islands only added to the potpourri of colors.

There was only a small disappointment. At the end of Cape Brett stands a light house that operated until 1978 when it became automated; it’s now a tourist attraction. I was excited to take a picture of the light house for my Mom since she spends some of her spare time volunteering at the local lighthouse in Westport, WA. However, when we reached the Cape the lighthouse was covered with tarpaulin and scaffolding. Apparently, the light house is undergoing a much needed renovation—sorry Mom.

We moved from the lighthouse to the highlight of the cruise, the “Hole in the Rock,” which was truly astounding. The rock formation is millions of years old and no one knows when the hole formed. None of us thought our skipper was actually going to navigate the catamaran through the Hole. In fact, Marc started feeling ill about this time since the seas in the Pacific Ocean were a little choppy, and headed downstairs where the ride was calmer. He figured the Captain was simply showing us the Hole and then would head towards our stopover point on Otehei Island. Luckily, he realized we were going through the Hole and quickly moved to the outside bow and enjoyed the experience as we did upstairs… minus the seasickness.

The captain had eight feet on each side of the boat to clear the rock walls; we didn’t think she could do it, but she proved us wrong. When we got to the other side, the sun was starting to set and the sun glistened on top of the water. Shelby, Dustin and I stood on top snapping pictures like crazy and holding on for dear life as the boat rocked back and forth from the choppy Pacific waters.

As we headed away from the rock I went to check on Marc, he was fine, and I was happy to learn he saw the miraculous Hole in the Rock. The afternoon was really spectacular and one of those things you really have to do as a tourist.

Tomorrow we continue our road trip heading further North towards Cape Reinga.

Road Trip!

Kerikeri, New Zealand

April 25, 2007
S 35°13.706
E 173°56.441

Two minutes into Marc’s shower the fire alarm sounded. He started barking orders to me to grab a few things as he jumped out of the shower and pulled on a pair pants and a shirt. We quickly made our way down the stairwell and found Shelby just ahead of us; the three of us rushed out the front door of the hotel right as the fire department arrived. Shelby mentioned she grabbed her iPOD, but “forgot” her husband—whoops!

After the fire department determined all was clear, we were allowed back in the building. Marc finished his shower, we gathered our packs, and headed back downstairs to load up the Ford Territory and begin our journey to the Bay of Islands… of course not until we posted a new blog update.

We never found out what triggered the fire alarm, but we quickly forgot the incident as we made our way up Motorway 1 North. Marc drove and actually said he was beginning to feel comfortable driving on the left side of the road after a few kilometers. Our Road Trip officially started!

We figured a few stops up the coastline would help break up the journey; our first stop was the Honey Café. They produce honey on-site, with bees flying everywhere, and sell several of their products; obviously not a great place to stop if you’re allergic to bee stings. However, since it was ANZAC Day, similar to Memorial Day in the States, the store didn’t open until 1:00 PM. We missed out on the fresh honey since it was only 11:15 AM, but we did see lots of bees and received some excellent travel advice for our trip North from the shop owner.

As we continued up the coast, several businesses were closed due to the holiday—most until 1:00 PM which is the minimum required by law, others all day.

We made a quick stop at Langs Beach to take in some of the beautiful coast line, and we knew the beach wasn’t closed! We sat on the white sand while gazing out at the aquamarine water. The waves crashed 10 feet from us as we snacked on cheese and crackers. About every thirty minutes a tractor pulling a trailer and boat would make its way onto the beach; making the trek to the south end where the tractor pushed the boat into the ocean. It appeared to be a very efficient way to launch boats without a ramp; in addition it eliminated hundreds of personal trucks from being parked along the coastline.

We tossed the Frisbee a little and walked on along the beach, testing the cold water, before jumping back in the Territory and continuing our journey towards Kerikeri. We were amazed by the immense lush green fields of grass and trees only occasionally dotted with tiny towns with populations of fewer than 500. We scoped out the houses with the best views of the ocean; imagining ourselves living in one of the houses someday, maybe as neighbors.

I’m not sure what it is about beaches and daydreaming, but the two definitely go together. We had plenty of time to daydream as we looked out on the ocean before finally reaching the charming town of Kerikeri. Tomorrow we’ll explore the small shops and take-away restaurants and of course enjoy a few beers along the river at our campground.

Coast to Coast...

Auckland, New Zealand

April 24, 2007

S 36.51.035
E 174.46.074

Shelby and Dustin arrived a little after 6:30 AM on the same flight we took the day before from San Francisco. Luckily they were able to check right into their room, shower and refresh quickly before we headed out on the town. I recommended a walking tour to rejuvenate their legs and help them adjust to the new time-zone after the long flight.

The Coast to Coast walking tour went from the Waitemata Harbor to Manukau Harbor, covering a total of 16 KM of Auckland, and hitting the main highlights including several parks and an incredible 360 degree vista from Mount Eden.

I should note, we didn’t have high expectations for Auckland since several friends and reviews we read recommended to get in and out as quickly as possible. We heard Auckland was an industrial city without a lot of beauty, but we kept an open mind before landing in New Zealand’s largest city. We had two nights planned, but only because Shelby and I had a slight miscommunication regarding flights—thus, the reason Shelby and Dustin arrived a day after us.

The majority of businesses in New Zealand operate out of buildings in the center of Auckland with companies such as Oracle, PriceWaterhouse Coopers, Microsoft, Sun, HP and Vodofone doing business here. The downtown area is reminiscent of the San Francisco financial district. You can wander around the chilly streets in the shadows of the corporate towers and simply slide a few blocks towards the waterfront and enjoy the intense southern equatorial sunshine.

When we were all ready to go, we made tracks to Albert Park, located a stones throw away from the hustle and bustle of the financial district and next to Auckland University. The park has the perfect number of trees, providing a nice combination of shade and sun, a picturesque fountain in the middle and perfectly manicured lush green lawns. Albert Park also provides stunning views of the Sky Tower, the largest building in Auckland at 1000 feet.

Albert Park was only a warm-up for what was to come on the Coast to Coast tour. We weaved our way through the complex layout of streets and parks of Auckland all afternoon. Every single park we strolled through was perfectly manicured, free of trash, and almost looked like something out of Pleasantville (a make believe world where everything is perfect). The fall colors added shades of orange, red and yellow to the scenery. Simply stunning…

We’re positive we wouldn’t have discovered gems like, Auckland Domain, Mount Eden, or One Tree Hill Domain if we didn’t jump right into the walking tour with Shelby and Dustin. Every single one of the nearly empty parks was immaculate, each with its own character, but all very inviting whether it was for running, walking, cricket, rugby, dog walking, or simply checking out the amazing views of the city.

If we missed these spectacular parks, we would have missed something very special within Auckland and would have likely departed Auckland with the same sentiment as others; it’s just a big industrial and corporate city.

The glorious parks definitely made Auckland worth the stop. For those who make it to Auckland, we suggest you get out of the city center, pack a picnic, grab your Frisbee, and enjoy the lush green, open-space.

A Trip Across the (Date) Line...

Auckland, New Zealand

April 23, 2007

S 36.51.035
E 174.46.074

We lost a day on our journey to New Zealand by crossing the International Date Line--that helps the budget! Our plane touched down a little after 5:00 AM local time on April 23rd after departing at 9:00 PM PDT on April 21st.

The plane was fairly empty allowing us to share the empty seat between us. We tossed books, newspapers and other stuff on the ground below our feet on the spare seat; this allowed us to stretch out a little more and actually get some real sleep. Still… needless to say, we were pretty groggy when we got off the plane due to the 3 AM wake-up and stumbled through the airport terminal.

We decided to rent a car in New Zealand since everything is spread out and public transit really isn’t an alternative for visiting some of the more remote areas. Plus, since Shelby and Dustin are joining us tomorrow we can all ride in the same rig and really explore New Zealand together… ROAD TRIP! We’ve never rented a car outside of the US and Canada and have never driven on the opposite side of the road—this would be a first.

Marc decided he wanted to drive and I would navigate. Those who know me also know I am not a very good passenger. I inherited some very nervous passenger traits from my mother and tend to panic at inappropriate times. I usually control my fears by not looking at the road—either reading or enjoying the scenery, but since I was the navigator I had to pay attention!

It was still dark when we pulled out of the parking lot airport, Marc hit the blinker to indicate the left turn, but instead the windshield wipers went on; the wiper’s control is where us Americans think the blinkers “should” be. He quickly realized the blinker lever was on the other side of the steering column and signaled his left-turn… the windshield wipers continued for a few at least a dozen more swipes, swearing under his breath he finally got them under control. This was just the beginning.

As navigator, I not only had to provide the directions ahead of time…i.e. turn right in 1 KM, but I also had to help remind him which lane to be in when turning. When it was time for our first turn, which was a left, I said, “stay close, stay close,” as Marc hit the wipers again to indicate his turn, he naturally headed towards the head-on traffic—the volume of my voice quickly increased as I was still saying, “stay close, stay close, stay close!” He realized his error and avoided a fender bender, but was again swearing… “What the fuck… stay close, stay close to what? (Marc’s words) How about turn into the near lane or stay left?” He wasn’t mad at me he was just frustrated and tired.

We decided to take a scenic drive north of Auckland before checking into our hotel. Since it was only 7:00 AM when we left the airport we figured we had at least 5 hours before we could check-in. The driving challenges continued as we headed north and the motorway turned into a two lane road.

This is when the nervous passenger in me really came out—I reminded Marc he has a whole car to the left of him as he was hugging the hills and nearly scrapping the side reflectors. At the same time it felt like cars were careening at us head-on since we aren’t used to the configuration. I was doing my best to not panic and make Marc even more nervous, so I finally just started laughing—what else could I do?

After about an hour of driving on the “wrong” side of the road we made it to a quaint town north of Auckland called Warkworth; just in time for morning coffee at a little café overlooking the river. We briefly explored the small town (2500 pop.) before jumping back in the car and driving a little further north to see the Dome Forest; an area of lush green coastal forest that was clear-cut 90 years ago and is now close to a full recovery. A short climb to a lookout point, providing distant views of the ocean and Auckland, was a perfect way to loosen our legs after the long flight.

As we made our way back to Auckland we stopped at some artsy little towns with fresh cheese, honey and other wholesome ingredients. At each stop I had to remind Marc when turning right… turn into the left lane. To make things even more confusing, the Yield arrows on the pavement actually appear to be arrows directing traffic One-Way. There were a couple instances where Marc nearly slammed on the brakes because he thought he was headed down a One-Way street and then realized that the arrow simply meant that he needed to Yield at the intersection ahead. I’ll let you just imagine the swear words when that happened.

When we finally made it to our hotel we decided to spend the rest of the day on foot and explore Auckland. We will have enough time for driving during the rest of the trip!