Yesterday is Yesterday, Today is Today, and Tomorrow is Tomorrow...

Dalat, Vietnam

June 23, 2007
N 11°56.529
E 108°26.398

Marc, Elise and I organized a ride with the “Easy Riders,” local tour guides, hanging out on street corners, who speak English and zip around from site to site on motorcycles—mostly old Russian or East German models. Since arriving in Vietnam I’ve completely given up my fear of motorcycles and embraced the motorbike as a primary and necessary mode of transportation. Today wasn’t any different.

When we set out in the morning, we asked the Riders to take us into the mountains so we could go trekking and requested them to pick us up after 4 hours. After a few minutes of good natured haggling over a price and a general agreement of where we were going we jumped on the bikes. A few kilometers out of town, a light rain started to come down making the roads slick, slowing our Riders down and forcing us to stop briefly to put on rain slickers.

Out of the town, we quickly climbed into the mountains. Snaking our way along the mountainside we had a perfect view down to the city of Dalat. Fields of green vegetables terraced the mountainside of rich, brilliant, red soil. Greenhouses were scattered among the fields, filled with various types of flowers including hydrangeas, roses and hibiscus; sold throughout Vietnam and exported to neighboring countries. As my Rider focused on the road I scanned right and left taking in the stunning scenery as we moved through small villages, more vegetable fields and local markets featuring the fresh produce.

Our first stop was the Tiger Waterfall where our guide advised us to walk down to the waterfall, take pictures and come back to meet him. Since the rain was still trickling, the Riders didn’t want to drive the 18 KM back to town, and then return to pick us up. Instead, they decided to lead us over the mountain trails, and after we discovered they had local knowledge of the area we were fine with them showing us the way.

The mountain area surrounding Dalat was a hotbed for Viet Cong during the American War (as it is known to the locals). Dalat was more of a safe-haven for the Viet Cong since they were familiar with the area, American and Vietnamese soldiers stayed clear of the rough wilderness. Those who did venture into the mountain region the Viet Cong captured them, both Vietnamese and Americans, and held them as prisoners of war. As we trekked through the fern laden area with our heavy feet crackling the branches, I tried to imagine what it would be like as a soldier venturing through the area. The forest actually held more than one enemy—tigers, poisonous snakes and the tough Viet Cong soldiers.

Each step I took, I was locked in a day dream. Thinking about the brave American and Vietnamese soldiers, who fought side-by-side, struggling to find their way through the dense fauna and slippery red clay, knowing that Viet Cong soldiers may be hiding, patiently waiting, to pounce at any moment. I realized regardless of how much I read or watch on TV I will never understand the level of bravery put forth by our soldiers who fought for their lives, in a foreign land, in a war that many didn’t understand.

As I trudged along the make shift path with my walking stick the thoughts stayed with me. We talked to our guide a little bit about the American War. The majority of Vietnamese people, including him, explain: “that was yesterday”, “today is today” and “tomorrow is tomorrow”. If only everyone could embrace this refreshing Buddhist attitude…