The Hills Are Alive...

Salzburg, Austria

September 6, 2007
N47°48.222
E013°02.831

Although the weather was far less than desirable, we were determined not to let it taint our opinion of Salzburg. We bundled up, Marc in 5 layers, me in 4, and waded into the rain looking to explore the city. After crossing the Salzach River we discovered a flight of stairs and figured we should see where they lead. After about five minutes of climbing we knew the city had more to offer than what was hiding beneath the thick, grey storm clouds. Plus, since we were climbing up the steep trailside, we were actually a little too warm for the first time in a few days.

Continuing to follow the trail through the dense forest, passing hidden chateaus, we looked down upon the city of picturesque churches and cathedrals; looming above was the massive and imposing Hohensalzburg Fortress. Occasionally the clouds would separate allowing us a glimpse of the snow-capped Alps off in the distance; which must be breathtaking on a clear fall day.

The natural beauty of the area reminded us of Marin County and the great trails we can hike just across the bay from San Francisco. Of course, Marin doesn’t have the Alps, or a majestic medieval fortress, but it does have views of the Golden Gate Bridge and the San Francisco skyline. The trails surrounding the fortress would be perfect for a morning run, combining stairs and hills, and the sweet aroma of fresh baked bread rising from the bakeries just below in the town square.

We continued to follow the trail, almost being pulled to the base of the commanding fortress. However, rather than entering we decided to wait and explore the castle tomorrow when the weather is supposed to clear-up. We can’t let the weather dictate our sightseeing though, and will definitely explore tomorrow rain or shine.

If it is raining, Marc will probably want to hit the infamous Augustiner Braustubl beer hall to warm-up. We visited the brewery for dinner last night. Located in an old monastery, the brewery serves hundreds of locals and tourists all gathered around giant wooded tables in a large hall. There are several food vendors dishing up all the local specialties, and, of course, a beer vendor. The process of purchasing beer has been perfected and Marc thoroughly enjoyed the establishment and atmosphere.

The process is as follows: 1.) Grab a mug in the size you want (.5L or 1L), 2.) Wash the mug in cold water at a community fountain, if you feel it’s necessary, 3.) Pay for your beer based on the mug size (2.60€ for .5L, 5.20€ for 1L), 4.) Take your receipt and mug to the keg operator who fills your mug, 5.) Handover your receipt to the keg master, 6.) Drink your beer, 7.) Repeat.

Even though the rain has been coming down at a steady pace since we arrived in Salzburg, we’re still enjoying the small town where “The Sound of Music” was filmed. The town was recommended as a “must see” by a friend, and we’re happy we didn’t miss out on the opportunity to experience the cultural hamlet at the base of the Alps.