Here Comes Da Pope...

Vienna, Austria

September 8, 2007
N48°12.245
E016°22.728

The 10:10 AM train from Salzburg took approximately 3.5 hours to reach the capital city of Austria. Excitement was in the air when we arrived at the Westbanhof, or West Train Station, in Vienna. The Pope is in town and his presence was felt throughout the city of Vienna. Posters displayed throughout the train station showed Pope Benedict the XVI hugging young children, smiling alone, and even one riding in his “Pope Mobile.” The schedule for his three day visit in Austria was outlined; culminating with a big Sunday Mass tomorrow.

Even when we arrived at the Happy Hostel, our host, Franz, told us about the Pope’s events the following day. He anxiously circled the big Stephansom church on a map, located in the heart of Stepansplatz Plaza, where Sunday Mass would be held for thousands. He warned us that several of the streets in the area, including the subway station, would be closed for security reasons. It sounded like total chaos and a good place to stay away from altogether!

The city was calling, so we quickly stowed our packs in our surprisingly large apartment, and headed out to explore. The weather in Vienna was at least 10 degrees (F) warmer than Salzburg, and there was only a slight drizzle coming down from the gray skies—a perfect day.

Emerging from the underground metro station, we were dwarfed by incredible architecture. All the buildings were immaculately restored and, for lack of a better word, stunning. The next two to three hours were spent in an almost trancelike state; wandering around and pointing out different buildings until we got lost in the 47 acre Hofburg Palace. This incredible feat of architecture was an active Imperial Palace for more than six centuries; therefore, the style of the buildings within the complex span Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, and Classical. Marc said it felt like we were walking through the set of a movie. Strolling down the glistening cobbled streets beneath the yellow hue of street lamps, as Gothic churches and giant cathedrals towered above us, it all seemed unreal...

We finished our day by stopping in at a small wine bar we accidentally found down a narrow side street. It was definitely a local hideout and it seemed we arrived several drinks after the regulars. The woman tending bar was tossing back a white wine spritzer about every 10 minutes and her two friends keeping her company, singing, dancing and laughing, were easily keeping pace.

At the bar to my left, sitting by himself, was a lonesome looking middle-aged fellow, chain smoking Marlboro Lights and polishing off a pint of Beck’s beer every 10-15 minutes. He was so shitty, unknowingly his cigarette dropped from his lips into his lap. He only realized when he felt the hot sting and hastily retrieved his smoke; quicky glancing around and hoping no one noticed his faux paux.

Everyone was speaking in Austrian except when singing to the music; which was being selected (song by song) by one of the bartender’s, very drunk, girlfriends. The tunes varied from disco classics, The Rolling Stones, Van Morrison, The Who, a brief tribute to Pavoratti, Dean Martin, Bob Dylan, and Frank Sinatra. Of course, with each song selection there was a performance of uninhibited and very animated dancing, singing and at times loosely choreographed dance steps.
It was all very good comedy and everyone in the little bar was thoroughly enjoying themselves. In fact, we decided to enjoy a second glass of wine and inhale a couple more packs of second-hand smoke before calling it an evening and saying good-night to the characters.

Tomorrow the real exploration of Vienna begins… if today is any indication of what the city has to offer, we won’t be disappointed.