Puerto Montt, Chile
February 16, 2007
S 41°28.372
W 072°56.750
We traveled from Santiago to Puerto Montt today after an all day bus ride from Mendoza to Santiago yesterday. Today’s travel was pretty easy, a 1 ½ hour flight followed by a 15 minute bus ride into town compared to seven hours on the bus from Mendoza.
Still, back-to-back travel days take it out of us… imagine hauling two 40 lb. backpacks and a 20 lb. daypack from your hotel, onto the metro, into the airport, from the airport and back onto the bus, out of the bus terminal, and then thru the streets of a city (with no street signs) you have never visited, all in a quest for a hotel that may or may not have a vacancy when you arrive.
Anyway… the best part about today’s flight was the descent. I peered out the window by chance and saw a sea of cotton white clouds. As I looked closer, I saw snow capped peaks poking through the clouds, completely blending into the scenery like chameleons. The scene was absolutely stunning. As we continued our descent, we approached a large, bright blue body of water surrounded by several snow capped peaks; it appeared to be a picture post-card, but it wasn’t a picture… it was real.
After landing in Puerto Montt, we took a very easy bus trip into the city. As we headed towards town along a very narrow two lane road we would occasionally pass farmers driving their horse or oxen bound trailers doing their best to avoid traffic. We made a few turns and then had a straight shot downhill into the town. On the downhill, we had panoramic views of the town of Puerto Montt and the port with the mountains in the background.
After exiting the bus station we took a short hike (800 meters) through the city and found a place to stay; Residencial La Nave, a hotel and restaurant all in one. After a few confusing minutes of discussing Pesos per night ($22 USD) with the woman who seemed to be in charge, we dumped our gear in our room and decided to get some lunch.
We made our way back downstairs through the restaurant (which was now full of locals) and saw several people with large caldrons on their tables filled with seafood. We decided we needed to
go no further and to have lunch right there. The caldrons were full of a Puerto Montt’s local specialty, Curanto.
The restaurant, a very simple place (like our hotel room) had square tables and wooden chairs. It appeared the majority of locals were ordering the Curanto—we had to try it! We decided to share one caldron since the bowl was massive. Our waitress brought us all the essentials for eating Curanto—a plate, spoon, knife, fork, bowl to place the discarded shells, bread, and a plate of lemons. After a few moments our very own caldron arrived.
The overflowing bowl had at least a dozen muscles, half a dozen clams, potato, sausage, pork belly, chicken, and a couple different dumpling type things, one with chunks of pork. The bottom of the caldron contained a piping hot tasty broth which was also served on the side in a cup and saucer.
The entire spread was somewhat overwhelming; we weren’t quite sure how to attack this meal. After sneaking quick glances, left and right, to see how the locals eat their Curanto, we determined you cut off a piece of meat or dumpling, put it on your spoon and dunk it into the
broth in the cup and saucer. It also seemed important to squeeze the lemons over the entire cauldron, and dip the bread into some of the broth—at least that is how we did it!
Half the fun of traveling is trying new things, I am glad we tried the Curanto!
February 16, 2007
S 41°28.372
W 072°56.750
We traveled from Santiago to Puerto Montt today after an all day bus ride from Mendoza to Santiago yesterday. Today’s travel was pretty easy, a 1 ½ hour flight followed by a 15 minute bus ride into town compared to seven hours on the bus from Mendoza.
Still, back-to-back travel days take it out of us… imagine hauling two 40 lb. backpacks and a 20 lb. daypack from your hotel, onto the metro, into the airport, from the airport and back onto the bus, out of the bus terminal, and then thru the streets of a city (with no street signs) you have never visited, all in a quest for a hotel that may or may not have a vacancy when you arrive.
Anyway… the best part about today’s flight was the descent. I peered out the window by chance and saw a sea of cotton white clouds. As I looked closer, I saw snow capped peaks poking through the clouds, completely blending into the scenery like chameleons. The scene was absolutely stunning. As we continued our descent, we approached a large, bright blue body of water surrounded by several snow capped peaks; it appeared to be a picture post-card, but it wasn’t a picture… it was real.
After landing in Puerto Montt, we took a very easy bus trip into the city. As we headed towards town along a very narrow two lane road we would occasionally pass farmers driving their horse or oxen bound trailers doing their best to avoid traffic. We made a few turns and then had a straight shot downhill into the town. On the downhill, we had panoramic views of the town of Puerto Montt and the port with the mountains in the background.
After exiting the bus station we took a short hike (800 meters) through the city and found a place to stay; Residencial La Nave, a hotel and restaurant all in one. After a few confusing minutes of discussing Pesos per night ($22 USD) with the woman who seemed to be in charge, we dumped our gear in our room and decided to get some lunch.
We made our way back downstairs through the restaurant (which was now full of locals) and saw several people with large caldrons on their tables filled with seafood. We decided we needed to
go no further and to have lunch right there. The caldrons were full of a Puerto Montt’s local specialty, Curanto.The restaurant, a very simple place (like our hotel room) had square tables and wooden chairs. It appeared the majority of locals were ordering the Curanto—we had to try it! We decided to share one caldron since the bowl was massive. Our waitress brought us all the essentials for eating Curanto—a plate, spoon, knife, fork, bowl to place the discarded shells, bread, and a plate of lemons. After a few moments our very own caldron arrived.
The overflowing bowl had at least a dozen muscles, half a dozen clams, potato, sausage, pork belly, chicken, and a couple different dumpling type things, one with chunks of pork. The bottom of the caldron contained a piping hot tasty broth which was also served on the side in a cup and saucer.
The entire spread was somewhat overwhelming; we weren’t quite sure how to attack this meal. After sneaking quick glances, left and right, to see how the locals eat their Curanto, we determined you cut off a piece of meat or dumpling, put it on your spoon and dunk it into the
broth in the cup and saucer. It also seemed important to squeeze the lemons over the entire cauldron, and dip the bread into some of the broth—at least that is how we did it!Half the fun of traveling is trying new things, I am glad we tried the Curanto!
Our place was only $22.00 a night and of course all the toilet paper we could use right outside our door ;-)
1 comment:
It is really smart to keep a huge fire fuel source right next to a hot water heater, that way in case of a fire you all die quicker from the super intense flame...
Post a Comment