Rambling Down Rambla...

Barcelona, Spain

October 26, 2007
N41°23.190
E002°10.480

The studio apartment we rented for the next 12 days is in the old town section of Barcelona. Just a couple blocks away the narrow street is lined on both sides with specialty shops—pollerias, carnecerias, panerias and supermercados. If you want bread you visit the paneria, if you want eggs and chicken you stop in at the polleria, if you want some chorizo to mix in with your eggs then you need to stop in at the deli.

The concept of supermarkets like Ralph’s, Albertson’s, or Safeway is ridiculous in Barcelona. No one is in a hurry. Life isn’t about being efficient with your time; it’s about enjoying time. So why would anyone want to wander through an overwhelming, generic, monstrosity like the supermarkets in the States when you have time to visit and chat with your local merchants?

After gathering supplies from each of the local shops we decided to simply wander through the city; mentally cataloguing bars, restaurants and plazas we may revisit over the next several days. Our first stop was Market Santa Caterina, a large public market, with picture perfect fruits and vegetables, more butchers, chicken shops, mushroom stands, cheese shops and stores simply dedicated to olive oil and vinegar. The market was packed with locals and tourists all gawking at the abundance and selection of meats and produce. I immediately decided we would be coming back here for more supplies.

When we exited the market we weaved our way through backstreets of Barri Gotic until we reached the Plaza de Catalunya at the northern end of La Rambla. It was now siesta and locals lounged in the Plaza; many lying on benches taking naps in the sun, others munching on bocadillos from various sandwich shops, and, of course, many simply staring into space while listening to music on their iPODs. We sat on the steps of the fountain, still amazed at the concept of siesta. It was three o’clock in the afternoon and thousands of people were simply lounging in the sun. Their jobs and work didn’t seem to be of any importance. It was siesta, time to enjoy the afternoon… work’s not going anywhere so why hurry?

La Rambla is the single most famous street in Barcelona. It runs north to south with the Plaza de Catalunya at the top and a monument to Christopher Columbus at the base along the waterfront. A large median, approximately 30 meters wide allows pedestrians to walk freely among the various vendors and street performers, while cars and scooters are restricted to one way streets running parallel to the median.

Sections of the street are dedicated to certain products such as birds and flowers while international newsstands are interspersed along the path. The street performers are similar to those around Pier 39 in San Francisco; many cover their bodies in silver or gold paint giving the illusion that they are statues. Others, dressed like gypsies, captivate an audience by juggling a crystal ball, tossing it in the air, back and forth in their hands while standing on soap boxes. Clowns hang from light poles, umbrella in hand warbling “Singing in the Rain” in broken English. The outfits, make-up and props are well thought out; each obviously trying to out-do the other. Making 50 EUR by taking pictures with tourists would be a good day’s work.

Our pace along La Rambla was leisurely; getting caught up a few times when a street performer had such a large audience it spread all the way across the median. We finally made it down to the Christopher Columbus monument and headed toward the waterfront and Rambla del Mar. The walkway along Rambla del Mar, designed for the 1992 Olympics, is built out of teak and is absolutely beautiful. Each piece is bolted from the underside leaving a sleek boardwalk, gradually rolling over the harbor, without any exposed nails or screws. The perfect craftsmanship makes the path a piece of art unto itself.

After exploring the harbor and marina, we tracked east for about a mile to the Olympic Village and Port Olimpico; also built for the ’92 Olympics. Port Olimpico is a long pier with two stories of bars and restaurants. As you sit and enjoy a beverage in the sun you can look down on the beach and watch volleyball, sunbathers and the waves of the Mediterranean crash along the shore, or from the other side you can see the boats sail in and out of the port.

After five hours of exploring we decided to work our way back to our apartment, rest and get ready for a night out in our new city. I think we got a great overview of Barcelona on our first day. In reality, we barely scratched the surface of what the city has to offer.