A Day On the River...

Siem Reap, Cambodia

July 8, 2007
N 13°24.747
E 103°51.822

Today was our first full day in Siem Reap and we were ready to explore. Originally, we planned to hit the temples for a half-day. However, after our driver explained that a half-day would only scratch the surface we decided to take a city tour and a cruise of the floating markets.

We’ve been to other cities with floating markets, like Bangkok, but those are set up more for the tourists, they aren’t true living situations for the locals. In Cambodia, the people who live in the floating markets are for real—that is where they live, go to school, eat, and struggle to make a living. The majority of the families fish the river and sell their catch to the local markets.

Shanty villages, surrounded by rice patties, lined the roads during our drive to the floating village. We instantly realized we were in a country far poorer than any other we have visited to date with the possible exception of Nepal. However, the people are rich in life and most appear happy even though no one knows what tomorrow may bring.

There were two types of houses on the road to the market—those on stilts above the water and houses that floated on the river. Regardless of the house, the children ran around frolicking in the afternoon sun and swimming in the river, most wearing nothing but their birthday suit. For the majority of the children this wasn’t by choice. Most families don’t have the money to buy their children clothes until they’re older and won’t quickly outgrow them.

When we reached the market, the majority of the proprietors were young girls who were very skilled at selling postcards, bananas and cold drinks. They would give you a look that made you melt inside, we could almost feel their suffering… how can you not help them? Of course we realize we can’t help them all and did what we could for the few who approached us.

After we returned from our city tour, we relaxed in our room for a few hours before we searched for internet access. We didn’t make it very far, Lin and Mey, our guides for the day, were eating at a local restaurant a few doors down from our guesthouse and insisted we join them for dinner.

We sat down at the table and food instantly started arriving. Lin and Mey had been there for awhile and had already finished a pitcher of beer, but we arrived just in time for the food and a second pitcher of beer. Mey grabbed us a couple glasses full of ice and poured us a cold one; beer is best on ice in Cambodia because this is the only way to keep it cold.

Next, he then politely showed us how to mix the fermented fish sauce, lemongrass, chilies, peanuts and fresh lime. This concoction served as a tasty dip for all of the grilled meats served to our table. Throughout the evening we tried grilled beef, cow intestines, squid and shrimp mixed with a tray of vegetables. Of course we also shared several more pitchers of beer. The guys preferred a mix of beers, similar to a black and tan (Guinness and Bass), providing a stronger taste, but not as strong as Guinness.

With each new pitcher of beer our sweet waitress would drop two or three more ice-cubes in our glasses and placed another plate below the pitcher signaling the total number of pitchers for the table. I think I counted 7 when we finally staggered out. Lucky for us, beer on ice, as strange as it sounds, actually “waters down” the beer and allows you to function in the morning.

We were happy we tried the local place with the locals; otherwise I don’t think we would have figured out the fish sauce concoction. Plus, the numerous toasts and stories shared will last a lifetime. We booked another trip with the guys for Tuesday when we will head up to the mountains where we will see one of Cambodia’s National Parks—which, of course, also includes a few temples.

We promised another dinner after our next trip. I think we have to limit the number of pitchers to 4! (They are small jugs.)