Abel Tasman National Park, New Zealand (Tonga Quarry Camp)
We got on the trail a little later than we hoped, just after 9:00 AM on our second day in Abel Tasman. It was a little overcast when we got out of bed, but the weather was warm—far from the heavy rains we heard about from others. We knew we had a tide crossing first thing (low tide was at 5:49 AM) and thought it wouldn’t be a big deal if we had a cup of coffee before taking off for the day. How high can the tide really be, just toss on the Tevas and wade across, right?
We got to the fork in the trail—one way for the high tide route, the other
way for the low tide route—we chose the low tide route. We got to the beach and saw a little water in the distance. “No problem, it can’t be more than mid-calf,” we said. As we got closer, the tide was clearly coming in, and the water now looked knee deep. “Someone needs to make a call,” Marc said. “Do we try to make it?” The detour on the high tide route added at least one hour to our expected five hours on the trail. “Let’s go for it,” Shelby responded. We threw off our packs, took off our boots, zipped off pant legs (turning them into shorts), and strode into the water in our Tevas.
Marc was first. Half way across he was up to his groin in water. He yelled back at us, “You guys better get moving!” The rest of us shortly followed, with Dustin being last, and at 6’3,” at least 5 inches taller than Marc, he was now up to his groin. The water was rising very quickly.
We set across on what appeared to be an island (see picture to the below and left), following the orange trail markers that lead people across the sand beach at LOW tide. We were all running now and I felt like we were being filmed as part of the “Amazing Race.” Our adrenaline was flowing trying to get to the next stream crossing before it was too late.
Marc got to the second stream crossing just in time to see a big
wave come in and push a ton of water back in our direction. “Hurry, Hurry, Hurry,” he yelled with panic in his voice. Marc started out on the second crossing, getting 1/3 of the way, with water to his waist, before he turned around and told us to go back… it was too dangerous. We headed back in the direction we came, running. The thought of being trapped in the tide crossed my mind, but I knew we could make it back to our original point of entry… but how deep would the water be in another five minutes!? Luckily, as we were headed out I saw a person out of the corner of my eye on what appeared to be a trail. I told Dustin we should head towards the trail since the first crossing continued to swell and we might not make it back across. The water pooling between us and the backpacker on the shore, curiously watching us, was shallow, maybe ankle deep—allowing us to reach the shore safely.
The low tide route was an adventure that is for sure. After we got our boots back on and continued on the trail, we continued to watch the water engorge the entire estuary. The island we ran across only moments ago disappeared ten minutes later. The low tide route saved us at least thirty minutes on the hike, but it provided an adrenaline rush that lasted rest of the day—I guess we didn’t need that coffee to begin with!
The rest of the day was uneventful compared to the way it started. We continued to admire the
beauty of the park and the pristine conditions. We spotted different mushrooms including orange mini-rooms growing out of a dead tree trunk. The beauty that surrounded us every step of the way was like nothing we had ever seen (golden sand beaches to the right). Marc commented New Zealand is like Disneyland for backpackers; trails perfectly manicured, no garbage to be found, friendly people and forests that are right out of a fairy tale.
I definitely see why Abel Tasman is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks… it really shouldn’t be missed.
1 comment:
Hey Guys,
Have been enjoying your trip .
take care, Rex
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