It's Always Beer-Thirty...

Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

September 4, 2007
N48°48.763
E014°18.920

The sun was shining when we headed out of our hostel this morning. We took the opportunity to enjoy the sunshine; however, we still had to bundle up in our jeans, long-sleeved shirts, fleece jackets, and for Marc, his wool hat to cover his newly bald head. The sun provided a chance for Marc to get some better photos of the castle in town and some much needed sun for his white dome.

We’ve thoroughly enjoyed our time in the Czech Republic, both in Cesky Krumlov and Prague, and are a little melancholy about leaving so soon. We’ll miss the magnificent architecture, excellent food and cheap, tasty, beer, but plenty of sites still lie ahead for us in Europe and we need to keep movin’.

Speaking of food, we loved the local cuisine in the Czech Republic because it’s something we can’t get at home. Well, we can, but it isn’t as good as the food here. In other countries, excluding the beef in Argentina, we found we can usually get better food in San Francisco than in the originating country (there were exceptions, of course). This includes spicy, authentic Thai food from Little Thai, piping hot Pho from My Canh and excellent Indian food at Shalimar or Naan N Curry. (The food at Abbas and Zainab’s house was pretty darn good though!)

Typical Czech food consists of a serving of pork or beef, sauerkraut, bread dumplings, all covered with a tasty gravy. Other dishes include goulash, sausage, chicken and mushrooms, duck, garlic soup, potato pancakes, red cabbage, and other meat and potato combinations. Regardless of what you order, it should be washed down by one of the local beers—light or dark. The idea is the food compliments the beer and provides a “base”, allowing you to drink even more beer. The Czechs drink far and away more beer per capita than any other country in the world! Yes, even more than the Irish and more than the Germans.

Pivovarsky Dum, a microbrewery in Prague, not only serves up the standard light and dark beer, but they also pour a tasting menu that consists of wheat, cherry, coffee, banana and vanilla. Yes, all beer. The beer is served in either a .3 liter or .5 liter portions, but most locals, who sometimes have a beer with breakfast, go for the .5 liter. If you want a puny .3L beer you must tell the bartender or you will automatically get a .5L pour. We normally wait until beer-thirty, and of course always get the .5L. For $1, why not?

The food and beer compliment each other very well, especially when the temperature is dipping into the 40s (F) at night. Both do an excellent job warming us up inside and out before strolling through the chilly streets. We figure we’ll find similar food and beer in the neighboring countries, including Austria (#5 in beer consumption per capita) where we’re headed tomorrow.

Overall, our time in the Czech Republic has been very enjoyable, and a highlight of our trip. We hope to visit the beautiful country again sometime in the future.

Laundry and a Haircut...

Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

September 3, 2007
N48°48.763
E014°18.920

Today was a laundry day. Yes, one of those dreadful days where we walk around trying to find a place to do our laundry, sit there while the machine is spinning and then wait for everything to dry. The other task for the day, besides site seeing, was finding a barber for Marc.

We completed our laundry, without incident, and even met a nice couple from Australia who were also doing there laundry. They felt the same way as us, trapped inside, when they should be out exploring the rustic town. As soon as we finished our laundry we grabbed a light lunch (cheese, bread and bananas) and sat on the bank of the Vltava and watching kayakers roll over the small rapids. From our vantage point we took pictures of a weathered multi-colored abandoned house and discussed what life must have been like during communism. We agreed, no matter how much we read, or stories we’ve heard, we’ll never really understand.

One thing we’ve noticed as we make our way through the Czech Republic is the people are shocked when you say hello or simply ask them how they are doing. For example, in a café, if we greet the barista by saying, “How are you doing today?” They’ll look at us warily, like they’re shocked and unsure how to respond. Most times they don’t even respond, acting like they didn’t even hear the question. As we were walking through the park we wondered if this may be residual behavior from the days of communism.

If you think about it, less than 20 years ago, most of these people couldn’t trust anyone—their neighbors, their friends, and possibly even their family. Anyone could be part of the secret police and turn them into the government for something that might even be misconstrued. We thought this might be part of the issue, the skepticism towards friendliness, but aren’t totally sure. Also, not surprising, most people we meet don’t want to talk about their lives during that period. People are obviously happier the way things are now, who can blame them.

After lunch we got lost strolling through the cobbled streets and finally made our way back to our hostel where Marc got a haircut. After searching in Prague, Kunta Hora and Cesky Kumlov for a barbershop, we decided that barbers don’t exist in Eastern Europe. So, Marc decided to shave his head since his hair, which was now maybe an inch long, was, in his words, out of control and mangy. I used a pair of small medial scissors, maybe a half inch in length, to cut the majority of the hair before Marc jumped into the shower and used a razor. I cleaned it up a bit when he got out of the shower. He is now completely bald and as his brother Joel said, “It looks like he’s getting photographed prior to being sent into his own padded little room.” Check out the mug shots!

Must Love Dogs: The people in the Czech Republic definitely love their dogs. It is completely normal to see dogs lounging around restaurants and cafes, riding metros and buses, and enjoying the luxuries of a hotel with their owners. All of the businesses are very pet friendly. The most common breed is probably dachshunds—which my family is very fond of.

Czech Please...

Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

September 2, 2007
N48°48.763
E014°18.920

Since the train schedule required us to pass through Prague on our way back from Kunta Hora we figured we would spend one more night. Plus, we had a few more errands to take care of before heading south to Cesky Krumlov, another UNESCO heritage site.

The train ride to Cesky Krumlov was comfortable and even enjoyable. We were able to read, listen to music on our iPods and enjoy a couple sandwiches we bought at the train station for lunch. This was luxury as compared to our travel days in South East Asia. The high speed train zipped through the countryside making a few brief stops at rural train stations. As we got further south, we ventured through a beautiful, scenic pine forest, before we rolled into the 13th century village of Cesky Krumlov.

Walking down the cobblestone streets from the train station into the village we felt a calm come over us. As we crossed the Vltava river via an ancient cobbled bridge, covered by a towering archway; we were immediately pleased we scheduled three nights in the village. This would give us a chance to unwind, and escape the hustle-and-bustle of the large cities we’ve been in for the last three weeks; ever since we left the comfort of the beach on Koh Phi Phi.

It felt like we were transported back in time. The village, though modernized, has a very old feel to it, almost medieval; especially when gazing upon the amazingly well preserved Krumlov Castle. The castle is the main focal point for the town and immediately captures your attention. As we wandered down alleys, and criss-crossed the Vltava on little bridges, we realized the village has much more to offer than the beauty of the castle. The village is surrounded by endless green pastures, picturesque buildings, flower gardens, and meandering pathways along the river, the town almost seems surreal.

We have to thank Edana, whom we met in Prague, for telling us we must visit Cesky Krumlov before leaving the Czech Republic. Even though it’s listed in our guide book, we probably would have cruised right by it on the train to Salzburg.

Note… I have to say I get a kick out of asking for the bill at dinner every night. Marc typically says “check, please” making a little motion with his hand like writing the bill. However, in the Czech Republic we say “bill, please” we don’t want the Czechs to be offended.

Yes, I make the joke every night and still think it is funny. Marc makes a fake laugh across from me with his hand on his belly like it’s a real gut-buster. He says, “Check, Czech,… get it, get it?” It’s the little things in life, right? Ha…

Pat, I Would Like to Buy a Vowel ...

Kunta Hora, Czech Republic

August 31, 2007
N49°57.014
E015°16.437

We allowed ourselves plenty of time to navigate the Prague train station. We even had a dry run the day before when we purchased our tickets, this ended up being a blessing since the majority of the signs are in Czech and all announcements over the public address system are in Czech.

The signage in the train station was like a Pat Sajak nightmare; please, for the love of God, will somone please buy a freakin’ vowel! Deciphering the consonant laden words like: “Vlak”, “Jizdenku”, “Odjezd”, “Vchod” and “Vychod” was comical for the Czech challenged, like us.

After wandering around the grimy station for 10-15 minutes, we found the platform where our train would be arriving and moved towards the front; distancing ourselves from the large crowd of people congregating near the rear of the platform. When the train arrived, at a little before noon, we boarded and found an empty compartment, stowed our luggage and stretched out for our one hour journey east to the UNESCO city of Kunta Hora.

Fifteen minutes into our train ride the conductor came around to collect tickets. I handed him our tickets and gave him a nice smile. He said something to us in Czech, and now Marc and I were both smiling and nodding our heads. The other passenger in our large, comfy compartment apparently advised the conductor we don’t speak Czech. “Ahh,” the conductor said turning to us and now speaking English, “You need to move seats… this is first class cabin and you bought second class ticket.”

Not even realizing we had a first class option, we got up, grabbed our gear, and moved to the next car of the train. The second class compartments were packed, people were standing and sitting in the hallways, so we just grabbed a spot near the window and enjoyed the view for rest of the trip. Not a big deal, even second class on this train was heaven compared to the cramped sleeping compartment on the Night Train from Hanoi.

Arriving in Kunta Hora we realized we missed our short connection to the town center since our train left Prague ten minutes late. We figured we could jump on a bus, but we only had a 2000 Czech Crown note (equivalent to $100 bill). Since there wasn’t anywhere to change the bill in or around the station and no sign of a taxi, we studied the map a little and decided we would have to walk the two miles into town.

This is when we met Claire and Spencer, a young couple from London. Just as we were walking away from the train station I looked back and saw Spencer coming towards us. The two came from Prague on the same train as us and were in Kunta Hora for their friend’s wedding. They actually had a cell phone, called a cab, and offered to share the cab with us. We gladly accepted and graciously thanked them.

We figured we would share the cab to Claire and Spencer’s destination and then try to find a place to stay the night. When the cab pulled into the driveway of their penzion, we looked at our guide book and realized it was actually the same place we were going to attempt to find a room. We were a little worried there wouldn’t be any available rooms due to the wedding, but were pleased when the young receptionist advised us a double was available. After checking in we pulled on some warm clothes, since the weather was becoming cold and gray, and headed into town for a bite to eat.

On our way out we bumped into Claire and Spencer and we suggested they let us buy them a beer since we couldn’t pay them for the cab ride. We found a nice restaurant near the town center and enjoyed a simple meal, wonderful conversation, and shared a few travel stories.

As they headed off to enjoy the pre-wedding festivities, we went out to explore the village. We had a great time weaving our way through the small alleyways of the UNESCO town, admiring the churches, museums and other historical landmarks before heading back to our room for a break.

We’re delighted we had the time to visit this little gem and see a different part of the Czech Republic; meeting Claire and Spencer was just a bonus.

A Top 5 City?

Prague, Czech Republic

August 30, 2007
N50°04.920
E014°24.425

Our time in Prague has been pretty relaxing. We’ve spent the majority of our days wandering through the city admiring the views and the vast, luscious green parks. We quickly travel from neighborhood to neighborhood by jumping on the metro or trolleys. It’s so refreshing to be in an efficient, clean, city; plus the weather is wonderful… cool and clear.

Our favorite park, Letna Park, perched high on the hill, surrounded by shade trees, is parallel to the river, and just a few kilometers from Prague Castle. It has a beer garden, with dozens of picnic tables and is frequented by mostly locals. The sweet smell of fresh cannabis occasionally drifts through the air as people relax and drink their cold beer, enjoying the sun and gazing across the river back into the town center. In other sections of the park, playground equipment is set-up for kids to play as their parents look on while, yep; you guessed it, enjoying a beer.

As we head out to explore other parts of the Czech Republic, we both agree Prague is a stunning city. The cobblestone streets, which aren’t laid out in a grid or any other pattern, are a challenge to navigate, but that makes it all part of the fun. I wouldn’t be surprised if Prague ends up on our Top 5 City list by the end of the trip…if not Top 5, then definitely Top 10.

Of course, we do have a lot left to see…

Getting Lost With a Purpose...

Prague, Czech Republic

August 28, 2007
N50°04.920
E014°24.425

We quickly discovered Prague is a difficult city to navigate, possibly the most difficult we’ve experienced to date. We’re always up for the challenge and don’t care if we get “lost” every now and then. In fact, getting lost in a new city is part of the fun; allowing you to see things you might not otherwise see, and meet people you might not meet.

Our goal for the day was to explore the massive Prague Castle and take a self-guided walking tour outlined in our Lonely Planet; passing many of the main sites and possibly strolling into a few beer halls for a break.

As we slowly climbed the Old Castle Steps the sweeping views of the city to our left were astonishing. The bridges, including the famous Charles Bridge, were beautiful and buzzing with traffic; pedestrians, cars, and trams scurried from one side of the river to the other. We pulled ourselves away from the lookout point and walked through the entrance of the Prague Castle; guarded by two very stern looking Czech soldiers.

We walked into a long passageway, packed with tourists, before we arrived in the Third Courtyard. Magnificent gothic-like spires of the St. Vitus Cathedral stood before us. Again, as with the Taj Mahal, we were taken aback and the only word that could describe the sight was “Wow!”

As if in a trance, we weaved our way through the people, continuously looking up at the massive structure, trying to capture as much as possible with the camera; knowing pictures will never fully do justice to the massive cathedral.

The inside of the cathedral was as impressive as the outside. Ornate stained glass, towering ceilings and extraneous side chapels, one which was adorned with semi-precious jewels, filled the awesome church. It still amazes us that something this large and detailed was built hundreds of years ago. The foundation was laid in 1344, but construction continued all the way until 1921—covering several architectural periods.

After a few hours we found ourselves wandering through the Second Courtyard, the First Courtyard and finally out the main entrance. We walked up the street to check out another unique building. The Renaissance Schwarzenberg Palace caught our attention because of the unique pattern on the outside. After sitting patiently for ten to fifteen minutes, Marc was finally able to capture an image without any tourists in front of it.

This is when we started to get a little lost… again. We knew we were going the wrong way for our walking tour, but we wanted to visit one of the famous Czech beer halls. The smoky room with large wooden picnic tables was packed with locals and tourists. Everyone shared tables, sipped cool draught beer and a few people munched on chicken fried steak or chips (potato chips). Enjoying our beer we studied our map, hoping to get our bearings, and head back onto the streets.

We weaved our way down the cobblestone pathways, in the direction we thought would link us back to the walking tour, when we found yet another famous beer hall listed in our Lonely Planet. Knowing we may never be in Prague again we figured we should stop in for another tasting and enjoy the atmosphere.

We sat down at a large table near the front of the hall, where we could look out into the street and enjoy the fresh air. A few sips into our beer a couple that appeared to be in their late 60s, nodded politely, and sat down across the table from us. They spoke only Czech and we figured they were locals.

When you order a beer in one of the beer halls, they place a piece of white note paper on your table, and simply make ticks for each beer that’s ordered. When the gentlemen across from us ordered his second beer, Marc and I commented on the efficient process. The lady, who we didn’t know spoke English, said “Yes, it is important to know what you owe.” Marc followed that up with “Yes, it’s also wise to know how many you drink.” We smiled a little and agreed we liked the simple, yet competent, way to keep track of things. We were mildly surprised that the woman spoke such good English since her and her husband were only speaking in Czech for the past 20 minutes.

When the couple asked us where we are from, we thought they were going to jump out of their seats at our response—smiles gleamed across their faces. They said they love San Francisco and their children live nearby in Dublin. Then they mentioned they had lived in a small city in the Central Valley in the 1980’s and 1990’s, Stockton. Marc proudly stated he went to the University of the Pacific (Go Tigers!) in Stockton.

We really enjoyed talking with the couple, listening to their story, and asking questions about their lives. It ends up the lady was granted permission by the communist government to move to the United States with their three kids (the oldest one was 16) in 1979, but her husband was not granted permission to leave the country until two years later in 1981. Similar to other immigrants, they came to the US with very little cash; only $48, and moved to where they could find jobs.

They perfected their English and landed jobs with the City of Stockton. They had a house near Twin Cities Road, an area Marc is very familiar with. When they reached retirement age they sold their house in California and returned to their homeland in 1999, a country that obviously changed after The Velvet Revolution, and the fall of communism, in 1989. Their children still live in California and they visit twice a year to see their grandchildren.

We believe the couple would have sat there with us for hours, and we wish they did, but they had a prior engagement with their church. They were now late because it appeared they found it difficult to pry themselves away. We really enjoyed the conversation and the excitement in their voices as they talked to us… it really is a small world.

When we finished ours beers we headed back out onto the streets, still thinking about the couple we met. We had so many questions for them about the history of the Czech Republic and their personal story about escaping the communist regime.

Navigating our way through the city and towards a restaurant for dinner we realized we were never really lost during the entire day; we were exactly where we should have been.

A New Continent, A Nice Change...

Prague, Czech Republic

August 27, 2007
N50°04.920
E014°24.425

We took the red eye from Bombay to Zurich and then continued on to Prague. It was time for another country, another language, and another currency.

It was 9:00 AM local time when we arrived in Prague. The morning weather was a little crisp for an August day; a major difference from the oppressive humidity we soaked up across SEAsia over the past three months. Needless to say, it was a very welcome change. We strapped on our packs, easily navigated the public train system and arrived at our hotel within 45 minutes. Ohh, it’s so nice to be back in a country that has process and procedures…

We got a great deal on our accommodations on Priceline.com, but couldn’t check into our room until 2:00 PM. Not a big deal, we dumped our gear in the luggage room and headed out to find the nearest café and a real cup of coffee. After our first cappuccino in over three months we wandered through a shopping mall looking for shoes and pants. We need something besides Tevas now that we’re in Europe and the weather is starting to get cool. Plus, Marc needs a new pair of pants since his khakis are now light-blue; the result of washing them with a blue shirt that seemingly won’t stop bleeding.

After Marc found a pair of shoes we headed back to our hotel a little after 2:00 PM. The walk helped us get familiar with our new neighborhood and some of the key landmarks in the area. We quickly showered to get the grime of the nine hour flight from India off of our bodies and then set out to explore our new city.

We walked through the Old Square in the center of town in complete awe. The architecture from the historical buildings ranged from Gothic to Baroque to Renaissance to Art Nouveau. At every turn we were staring up at another impressive building like nothing we’ve ever seen.

The day ended with dinner in a microbrewery where we enjoyed beef dumplings and a half liter of tasty beer—our first non-lager beer in months. We knew we had just scratched the surface of the sites in Prague, but if day-one was any indication of what lies ahead, we are in for a real treat.